Recipe Manuscript

To Make Westphalia Hams

Name: To Make Westphalia Hams
Prep time: PTPT1H
Cook time: PTPT0M
Yield: 20
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1 large leg of fatty pork (approx. 8-10 kg), preferably from a heritage, black breed; 28 g curing salt #1 (or food-grade potassium nitrate); 28 g salt prunella (modern equivalent: potassium nitrate, or increase above curing salt); 250 g coarse sea salt; 60 g bay salt (substitute: 60 g sea salt and a handful of fresh bay leaves, chopped); 450 g coarse light brown sugar

1720

From the treasured pages of Cookbook of 1720

Unknown Author

Culinary Enlightenment (1700 - 1800)European Intermediate Advanced Dinner Lunch Snack Other

Original Recipe • 1720

Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Make Westphalia Hams

"Cut your leg of larg fat pork, black hogs the best, hang it up two days, rub in an ounce of salt petre finely beaten, let it lye a day or night, then take an ounce of beaten salt Prunell with 2 large handfulls of common salt, & a handfull of bay salt a pound of course sugar mix all these together & warm them in a stew pan but besure not to melt it, whilst it is hot rub it all over the ham, let it lye till it melts to brine, then turn it every day twice or baste it with that brine for 3 weeks together dry it as bacon Mrs Pritchetts. chward -"

Note on the Original Text

Early recipes are brief and assume a cook’s practical knowledge, explaining what to do without precise temperatures or definitions. Measurements rely on household standards—‘handfuls’ rather than grams, for example—and spelling, such as 'lye' for 'lie', varies with the period. Ingredients like 'salt prunell' and 'bay salt' were common in the 18th century but are rare today—modern equivalents are suggested. Notably, the method focuses on sensory cues (the brine forming, the meat’s feel), emphasizing experience over exactness, and reflects the hands-on, resourceful nature of historical kitchens.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cookbook of 1720 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookbook of 1720 (1720)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Unknown

Era

1720

Publisher

Unknown

Background

Step back to the early 18th century and discover a delightful treasury of recipes and culinary secrets, where traditional flavors meet timeless technique—a feast for curious cooks and history lovers alike.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe, dating to around 1720, comes from an English household collection but references Westphalia—the region of northwestern Germany renowned for its smoked and cured hams. The inclusion of black hogs nods to prized heritage breeds known for their flavorful fat. The process reflects the early modern period’s approach to meat preservation before refrigeration, using salt, nitre, and sometimes sugar to cure and flavor meat for long-term storage. Mrs. Pritchett, named at the end, is likely the originator or household cook, a common practice in manuscript cookery books. Recipes like these would circulate within elite and prosperous homes, adapted to local tastes and available materials.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

The ham would have been cut with heavy butcher’s knives and hung using strong hooks or ropes in a cool, airy larder—often an outbuilding or cellar. The salt mixture would be warmed in a cast iron or copper stewpan over a gentle fire, and hands (in lieu of modern gloves!) did the rubbing. A wooden tub, tray, or deep dish served to hold the meat during curing, and a ladle or large spoon was used for basting. Hanging for drying often took place in chimneys, lofts, or dedicated curing rooms.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

1 hr

Cook Time

0 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 large leg of fatty pork (approx. 17.6–22 lbs), preferably from a heritage, black breed
1 oz curing salt #1 (or food-grade potassium nitrate)
1 oz salt prunella (modern equivalent: potassium nitrate, or increase above curing salt)
9 oz coarse sea salt
2 oz bay salt (substitute: 2 oz sea salt and a handful of fresh bay leaves, chopped)
1 lb coarse light brown sugar

Instructions

Begin by selecting a large, fatty pork leg—ideally from a heritage breed such as Berkshire, which is closest to the black hogs of the past.
After trimming, hang the pork leg in a cool, well-ventilated spot for 2 days to allow it to firm up and dry slightly.
Next, rub 1 ounce (28 grams) of finely ground potassium nitrate (available as curing salt #1 in modern charcuterie) all over the meat and let it rest for 12-24 hours in a non-reactive container.
In a saucepan, gently warm 1 ounce of salt prunella (substitute with fine-quality food-grade potassium nitrate or simply increase curing salt slightly), 2 large handfuls of coarse sea salt (about 9 ounces), 1 handful of bay salt (about 2 ounces; substitute with extra sea salt and a handful of fresh bay leaves, finely chopped), and 1 pound of coarse light brown sugar.
Do not let the mixture melt.
While still warm, rub this blend thoroughly over the ham.
Place the ham in a clean tub or tray, cover, and let it rest until the mixture turns to brine—this will take a day or so.
For 3 weeks, turn the ham twice daily or baste it with the released brine.
Keep it in a cool spot throughout.
After 3 weeks, remove the ham and hang it in a well-ventilated area to dry and cure as you would bacon.
The result is a rich, deeply flavored ham, reminiscent of the original Westphalian style.

Estimated Calories

370 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing and curing this traditional ham takes time, but most of it is waiting rather than hands-on. The hands-on prep takes about an hour or less, and there is no actual cooking, just curing. The ham is meant to serve a large group, and it is quite rich, so a typical serving is modest in size.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.