Kleine Kool: Dus Genaamt Om De Gelykenis
"Little Cabbage: So Named Because Of The Resemblance"
From the treasured pages of Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek
Unknown Author
Kleine Kool: Dus Genaamt Om De Gelykenis
"Zie eens hier een slag van Gebak, dat men maakt in gedaante van een Koek; men neemt daar toe witte Kaas die vet is, en een paar handen vol Meel, men klopt het alles braaf onder malkander met een Schopje of Pol-lepel daar toe bequaam zynde. Doe'er voorts by gehakte groene Citroen-schil, en geconfyte Citroen-schil, mede wel gehakt; als het alles wel is gemengt, doe'er dan vier of vyf Doieren van Eyeren by, en maak een Beslag van Struiven of Pannekoeken; daar na zult gy van 't zelve in een Taart-pan of twee doen, en zult daar in als een slag van Struiven of Pannekoeken maken; de Taart-pannen moeten vet van Boter zyn, dan soo zult gy uwe kleine Kooltjens doen backen in een Oven, na se te hebben verguld; gebacken zynde, soo haal se uit, en verglaast se, als gy wilt, met Suiker, en regt se aan voor een Tussen-geregt."
English Translation
"Little Cabbage: so named because of the resemblance. Here you see a type of pastry that is made in the shape of a cake; for this one takes white cheese that is fatty, and a couple of handfuls of flour, beating everything together well with a small shovel or a wooden spoon suitable for it. Next, add chopped green lemon peel and candied lemon peel, also well chopped; when everything is well mixed, add four or five egg yolks, and make a batter for fritters or pancakes; then you shall put some of this in one or two tart pans, and make it into a kind of fritter or pancake; the tart pans must be greased with butter, then you shall bake your little cabbage cakes in an oven, after gilding them; when baked, take them out and glaze them, if you like, with sugar, and serve them as an in-between course."
Note on the Original Text
Early 18th-century Dutch recipes provide broad instructions, expecting cooks to know standard domestic techniques. Exact quantities are rarely stated — instead, terms like 'a couple handfuls' or 'a few eggs' were common. Measurements only became standardized in much later culinary writing. The spelling reflects period Dutch: words like 'braaf' (now 'goed'), 'doe’er' (doe er), and 'malkander' (elkaar), and 'Doieren van Eyeren' for egg yolks. The phrasing is direct, and steps are given in rapid succession, leaving much to the cook's own expertise and experience.
Title
Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek (1725)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1725
Publisher
J. du Vivie
Background
A delectable journey into 18th-century Dutch cuisine, this cookbook serves up traditional recipes, culinary wisdom, and a flavorful glimpse of the Netherlands’ rich gastronomic heritage.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe was first published in 1725 in the Netherlands, appearing in 'Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek.' At the time, Dutch cuisine thrived on both local dairy and imported exotic ingredients — candied citrus in particular. Such recipes were often served as 'tussen-gerechten,' or intermediate courses, during elaborate banquets to delight and surprise guests. Kleine Kool draws its name from its charming resemblance to miniature cabbages, reflecting both the imaginative playfulness of period cooks and the enduring Dutch affection for visually interesting fare.
The original preparation would have used a thick wooden spoon or spatula ('schopje' or 'pollepel') for mixing the batter. The baking would have been done in shallow metal tart pans ('taart-pannen') well greased with butter, set either near the hearth or in a wood-fired oven. Lemon zest would be cut with a small knife, and the candied peel chopped finely with a kitchen cleaver. A small brush or feather could be used for gilding the tops with beaten egg yolk.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
25 mins
Servings
6
Ingredients
- 9 ounces full-fat fresh cheese (quark, ricotta, or full-fat farmer's cheese)
- 3.5 ounces (scant 1 cup) wheat flour
- Grated zest of 1/2 lemon (fresh, unwaxed, if possible)
- 1 ounce candied lemon peel, finely chopped
- 4-5 egg yolks (from large eggs)
- 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter (to grease the tin or pan)
- 1/2 ounce (1 tablespoon) granulated sugar (for finishing)
- Optional: additional egg yolk for glazing
Instructions
- To prepare 'Kleine Kool', start by mixing 9 ounces of full-fat fresh cheese (quark or ricotta will substitute well) with about 3.5 ounces (scant 1 cup) of wheat flour.
- Blend these together smoothly with a sturdy spoon or spatula.
- Add the grated zest of half a fresh lemon and 1 ounce of finely chopped candied lemon peel, ensuring both are thoroughly incorporated.
- Next, whisk in 4 to 5 large egg yolks.
- The mixture should now resemble a loose, spoonable batter, much like for pancakes (add a splash of milk if it needs thinning, but don't make it runny).
- Generously butter one or two shallow baking tins or ovenproof skillets.
- Ladle the batter in, smoothing the tops.
- For a period-authentic finish, brush the tops with a little beaten egg yolk for a golden glaze.
- Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F until puffed, golden, and set (about 20–30 minutes, depending on thickness).
- Remove from the oven, let cool for a few minutes, then dust with a generous sprinkle of sugar.
- Serve warm as a delightful 'in-between' dish at the table.
Estimated Calories
210 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparation takes about 15 minutes, including mixing and getting the ingredients ready. Baking in the oven takes 25 minutes. Each portion contains about 210 calories if you divide the finished dish into 6 servings.
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