Recipe Manuscript

Empadas De Anguias Para Entradas

Name: Empadas De Anguias Para Entradas
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT2H
Yield: 8
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 800 g eel (skinned, boned, cut into 2-3 cm slices); 500 g shortcrust pastry (homemade or store-bought); 200 g cooked meat, finely chopped (beef, veal, or pork, substitute with chicken if needed); 1 tsp salt; 1/2 tsp black pepper; 1/4 tsp mixed spices (nutmeg, allspice, cloves); 2 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped; 2 tbsp scallions, finely chopped; 50 g black truffles, finely chopped (substitute with 100 g button mushrooms if unavailable); 50 g wild mushrooms, finely chopped; Small bouquet of fresh fine herbs (such as thyme, tarragon, or marjoram); 40 g unsalted butter; 1 large egg (beaten, for glazing)

"Eel Empanadas For Appetizers"

1785

From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha

Written by Lucas Rigaud

Culinary Enlightenment (1700 - 1800)European Advanced Snack Appetizer Other

Original Recipe • 1785

Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Empadas De Anguias Para Entradas

"Feitas em poſtas as anguias, e ſem eſpinhas, façaõ huma caixa de maſſa tenra, guarneçaõ o fundo deſta com hum bom picado, ponhaõ-lhe em cima as poſtas das eirozes, temperem de ſal, pimenta, eſpecias, ſalſa, cebolinha, trufas, e cucumélos, tudo picado, e huma capella de hervas finas, manteiga freſca por cima; ponhafe-lhe a ſua tampa de maſſa tambem tenra, os ſeus adornos, doure-ſe com ovos batidos, conforme ſe coſtuma, e ponha-ſe a cozer no forno o eſpaço de duas horas; depois de cozida abre-ſe, tiraſe-lhe a capella, eſcorreſe-lhe toda a gordura, e ſerve-ſe com ragú de trufas, ou com qualquer outro ragú, ou com o molho que melhor convier."

English Translation

"Cut the eels into pieces and remove the bones, then make a case of shortcrust pastry. Line the bottom with a good mince, place the pieces of eel on top, season with salt, pepper, spices, parsley, chives, truffles, and mushrooms, all chopped, and a bouquet of fine herbs, with fresh butter on top. Cover with a lid of tender pastry, decorate as usual, glaze with beaten eggs, and bake in the oven for two hours. After baking, open it, remove the bouquet, drain off all the fat, and serve with a truffle ragout or any other ragout, or with whatever sauce is preferred."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in formal Portuguese of the late 18th century, using archaic spellings and typesetting such as the long 'ſ' for 's.' Quantities and times are implied rather than specified, relying on the cook's judgment and knowledge of proportions—typical of early modern cookery writing. Instructions are sequential but occasionally concise, expecting the reader to fill in gaps from experience. Spelling quirks (e.g., 'maſſa' for 'massa') are consistent with the book's publishing date and typographic conventions. The recipe emphasizes process and composition over exact measurement, as was common prior to the widespread standardization found in modern cookbooks.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Lucas Rigaud

Era

1785

Publisher

L. da Silva Godinho

Background

A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe comes from 'Cozinheiro Moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha,' published in Lisbon in 1785 by Lucas Rigaud. The book is a window into the refined cuisine of 18th-century Portugal, blending local traditions with cosmopolitan European influences. Dishes of this era often displayed both abundance and sophistication, fitting for the noble or wealthy urban table. Eels, a prized ingredient in Portugal, were especially celebrated for their flavor and texture, making them a centerpiece for impressive pastries and pies, particularly at feasts or as stately 'entradas' (starters). The inclusion of truffles and a ragout sauce reveals a luxurious bent, echoing French gastronomic trends of the time.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Back in the 18th century, cooks would have used a robust wooden table for pastry making, with rolling pins fashioned from hardwood and large kitchen knives for butchering the eel. The pie would be assembled in a deep earthenware or copper baking dish. The baking itself took place in a wood-fired oven, carefully regulated by the experience of the cook rather than a thermometer. Egg wash was applied with a simple brush made from feathers or bundled herbs. Once baked, the pie would be allowed to settle before being opened with a sturdy serving knife and spoon.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

2 hrs

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 3/4 lb eel (skinned, boned, cut into 3/4–1 1/4 inch slices)
1 lb 2 oz shortcrust pastry (homemade or store-bought)
7 oz cooked meat, finely chopped (beef, veal, or pork, substitute with chicken if needed)
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
1/4 tsp mixed spices (nutmeg, allspice, cloves)
2 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped
2 tbsp scallions, finely chopped
1 3/4 oz black truffles, finely chopped (substitute with 3 1/2 oz button mushrooms if unavailable)
1 3/4 oz wild mushrooms, finely chopped
Small bouquet of fresh fine herbs (such as thyme, tarragon, or marjoram)
1 1/2 oz unsalted butter
1 large egg (beaten, for glazing)

Instructions

Begin by preparing the eels: skin and fillet them, removing all bones.
Slice the eel flesh into thick pieces (about 3/4–1 1/4 inches thick).
Roll out a shortcrust pastry and line a deep pie dish, forming a sturdy bottom crust.
On the bottom, spread a layer of finely chopped cooked meat (beef, veal, or pork), lightly seasoned.
Arrange the eel pieces on top and season with salt, freshly ground black pepper, a mix of warming spices (such as nutmeg, allspice, and cloves), finely chopped parsley, scallions, black truffles (or substitute with cultivated mushrooms), and small edible wild mushrooms.
Add a generous knob of fresh butter over the filling.
Cover with a pastry lid, crimping and sealing the edges, and decorate as desired.
Brush the top with beaten egg.
Bake the pie at 350°F for about 2 hours, until the pastry is golden.
When done, open the pie, remove the herbal bouquet (the “capella”), and carefully drain off any excess fat.
Serve the pie with a rich truffle ragout or another savory sauce of your choosing.

Estimated Calories

500 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It will take about 30 minutes to prepare the filling, pastry, and ingredients, and then the pie bakes for 2 hours. Each serving contains about 500 calories, and this recipe serves 8 people.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.