Recipe Manuscript

To Preserve Cowcumbers

Name: To Preserve Cowcumbers
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTP3DT1H
Yield: 12
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 500 g small cucumbers (6-8 cm in length, firm and unblemished); 500 g granulated sugar (for initial syrup); 375 g superfine sugar (for second syrup); 480 ml water (per 500 g sugar, adjust as needed); 1 egg white; 5 g food-grade alum (or modern equivalent, for greening); 1 lemon (zest and juice); Orange flower water OR a small pinch of ground nutmeg (substitute for musk/ambergris, optional); Extra granulated sugar (for candying, optional)

1700

From the treasured pages of Receipts in cookery and medicine 1700

Unknown Author

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Advanced Dessert Snack Other

Original Recipe • 1700

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Preserve Cowcumbers

"Take your cowcumbers small about a finger's lenght wash them & boyle them in water but not too tender, then take them oute of the water & make a hole through them the longe ways with a bodkin them then pase them & waigh them and after green them then take their weight in ordinary sugar and clarifie it with the white of an egge and a pint of water to every pound of sugar when your syrrup is made take your cowcumbers out of the water they were green'd in & put them into the syrrop and let them boyle keepinge them covered for so thy green. boyle them a little euery day, put into the syrrop the pill of a fresh limon, then make a fresh syrrup of double refined sugar, three quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of cowcumbers & squese into it the juice of a limon to cover them, your syrrup must bee neer j'lly when they are enough. some put in m'ske and halfe a graine of ambergrise like orange flower water to perfume. Cowcombers of the bigness of limons done thus to looks well only those you must choose out the thickest Rind & slit them down the sides and take oute the seeds before you green them, small cowcumbers of the bigness of nuttmeggs may bee thus done only when they have done in the last syrrup til they are come to some tendernesse, draw them through with a small lardmge pin ouer cross two or three tymes with the miner tyne of a green cythern if for not sweet meats but if dry them run them through with a great needle for the syrrop to enter and candie them at your pleasure. For y' Greeninge your Cowcumbers Let the water bee ready to boyle then take it of the fire and put in a peice of Rock alum then put in your fruit & set on the fire & let it scald for halfe an hour or longer till the colour please you, you must not expect them very green before they come into y' syrrop."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in the conversational, instructive style typical of early modern English manuscripts. Abbreviations ('boyle', 'syrrup') and obsolete spellings ('greend', 'boylinge') are common. Instructions leap between stages, presuming the reader’s familiarity with basic preserving and sugar-work methods. Modern measurements and stepwise specificity are absent; weights and ratios are approximate and tools are everyday domestic items. The evocative, almost poetic language reflects both the artistry and experimental spirit of period cookery.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Receipts in cookery and medicine 1700 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Receipts in cookery and medicine 1700 (1700)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Unknown

Era

1700

Publisher

Unknown

Background

Step into the kitchen of the early 18th century, where this charming culinary manuscript tempts tastebuds with recipes and secrets from a bygone era. A delicious journey for both the curious cook and the history lover.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe, originating from around 1700, comes from a manuscript labeled 'V.b.273.' At this time, preserving fruits and even certain vegetables in sugar syrup was a favored technique among the English elite, both as a means of extending scarce produce and for impressive culinary display. Cucumbers, then called 'cowcumbers,' played a rare and special role in sweetmeats, as they were more commonly consumed in savory forms. Such receipts speak to both the growing enthusiasm for sugar and the influence of international trade bringing new preservation methods, spices, and luxury flavors to English kitchens.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In the early 18th century, cooks would have used a large brass or copper preserving pan for boiling and simmering both cucumbers and syrups. A bodkin (a thick, blunt needle) or skewer pierced the cucumbers lengthwise, allowing syrup penetration. Scales ensured correct proportions of sugar to fruit. Simple strainers or muslin cloths clarified the syrup after boiling with egg white. Alum, sold in blocks, provided the greening agent. Citrus zest was taken off with a paring knife, and to candy, cooks set the cucumbers to dry on sieves or wire racks.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

P3DT1H

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 lb small cucumbers (2 1/2-3 inches in length, firm and unblemished)
1 lb granulated sugar (for initial syrup)
3/4 lb superfine sugar (for second syrup)
2 cups water (per 1 lb sugar, adjust as needed)
1 egg white
0.2 oz food-grade alum (or modern equivalent, for greening)
1 lemon (zest and juice)
Orange flower water OR a small pinch of ground nutmeg (substitute for musk/ambergris, optional)
Extra granulated sugar (for candying, optional)

Instructions

Begin by selecting small cucumbers, each about the length of an adult finger (2 1/2–3 inches).
Wash thoroughly.
Blanch the cucumbers in boiling water briefly—just enough so they soften slightly but remain firm.
Use a skewer or thin tool to make a lengthwise channel through each cucumber.
Weigh your cucumbers.
Next, 'green' the cucumbers: bring fresh water to a boil, remove from heat, dissolve a small piece (about 0.2 oz) of food-grade alum, add cucumbers, return to gentle heat, and simmer for 30 minutes or until desired bright green color is achieved.
Prepare your syrup: for every 1 lb of cucumbers, use 1 lb granulated sugar, 1 egg white, and 2 cups water.
Boil the sugar, water, and egg white together, skimming off scum until syrup is clear.
Strain to remove egg white residue.
Add the blanched cucumbers to the syrup, cover, and simmer gently each day for several days to develop flavor and preserve color.
Toward the end, add the zest of one lemon and a squeeze of juice.
For a second, thicker syrup, use 3/4 lb of superfine sugar per 1 lb of cucumbers, and enough lemon juice to cover.
Finish by boiling to a jelly-like consistency.
Optionally, add a drop of orange flower water or a pinch of ground musk or ambergris (or a grating of nutmeg as a substitute if unavailable) for fragrance.
To candy, remove cucumbers from syrup and dry, then roll in sugar if desired.

Estimated Calories

130 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing and candying cucumbers takes several steps, including blanching, greening, simmering in syrup over several days, and optional candying. While hands-on time is only about 1 hour, most of the process is waiting between steps. Each serving contains mostly sugar and a small cucumber, adding up to about 130 calories per piece. The recipe makes 12 portions, based on one medium cucumber per serving.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.