To Stew A Breast Of Veal
From the treasured pages of Mrs. Rachel Kirk Book 1707
Written by Rachel Kirk

To Stew A Breast Of Veal
"Take a large breast of Veal half roast it and take the bones and most of the skinns shuer it up and lett it bee almost cold then stuff it your stuffing must be made thus take a sweet bread or two that is parboyled and shred them very fine mix them with a little lemon pill and two anchovies and pickled oysters shred fine beef suet and a penneworth of capers a little nuttmegg and mace some Mushrooms and cockles seasoned mix all these Ingredients together and stuff the thick of your Veal then take some strong broth in a pan that your breast may lye thick side down ward and when it is half stewed putt in a gill of white wine a lemon pill an onion stufft with cloves two eggs yolks a little nutmeg a little flower mix in half a pound of butterr mix it with your sauce then take two or three brushes parboyle them and cut them in slices fry them brown in butterr then take them out and when your Veal is enough dish it up and lay your brushes about it and same on your sauce and garnish your dish with lemon and pickle some oysters so dish it upp hott."
Note on the Original Text
Recipes at this time were written more as memos for experienced cooks than as foolproof instructions. Measurements are often approximate or based on intuition—'a gill' for wine, 'a penneworth' (a penny's worth) of capers, and so on. Spelling was variable ('lett', 'bee', 'shuer', 'brushes' for asparagus), reflecting a lack of standardization in English orthography. Many technical actions—such as how to bone a breast of veal, or how long to 'parboyle'—are assumed knowledge. Flavors are layered by combining savory (anchovy, oysters, suet) with sweet and aromatic (lemon, nutmeg, mace), with the expectation that the contemporary cook would season and adjust based on the taste and texture developed throughout the process.

Title
Mrs. Rachel Kirk Book 1707 (1707)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Rachel Kirk
Era
1707
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A remarkable collection of early 18th-century recipes, Rachel Kirk's work invites readers into the kitchens of the past where classic culinary traditions and timeless flavors come alive. Expect a charming medley of savory feasts and sweet treats reflective of the era's sophisticated palate.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from 1707, penned by Rachel Kirk—a period when lavish, savory preparations of meats graced dining tables of the English gentry. The style combines both roasted and stewed techniques, a hallmark of festive and celebratory dishes in the early 18th century. Recipes like this reflect the interplay of imported luxury items—such as spices, anchovies, oysters, and wine—with traditional British meats, showing the expanding palate of post-Restoration England. The mixture of meat, shellfish, and sweetbreads in one dish reveals a Baroque love of rich, layered flavors and an eagerness to impress with both skill and ingredient diversity. Such a compound recipe would have been served at a grand table, garnished attractively and redolent with expensive ingredients.

Back in 1707, cooks worked over open hearths using spits for roasting, cauldrons or large pots for stewing, and heavy knives for boning the meat. Ingredients were mixed by hand in earthenware or wooden bowls. The parboiling of sweetbreads and asparagus would have taken place in small kettles, while frying was done in shallow pans over the fire. For thickening sauces, wooden spoons and possibly a whisk made of twigs or wire were used. For presentation, large platters were used—often pewter or silver for wealthy households—and the garnishing involved sharp knives and special serving utensils.
Prep Time
1 hr
Cook Time
1 hr 45 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 large veal breast (5.5–6.5 lbs)
- 2 small sweetbreads, parboiled (9 oz total, or use chicken liver as a substitute)
- 1 tsp grated lemon zest
- 2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
- 2 oz pickled oysters (or jarred mussels)
- 1 oz finely chopped beef suet (or beef fat, or butter)
- 1 tbsp capers
- 1/2 tsp grated nutmeg
- 1/2 tsp ground mace
- 2.5 oz chopped mushrooms
- 1.75 oz cockles, chopped (or small clams, or omit)
- 3 1/4 cups strong beef or veal broth
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- Peel of 1 lemon
- 1 whole onion, studded with 4–5 cloves
- 2 egg yolks
- 1 tbsp plain flour
- 8 oz unsalted butter
- 2–3 bunches of asparagus (about 1 lb), trimmed and sliced
- Extra butter, for frying
- 1 lemon, sliced for garnish
- Extra pickled oysters, for garnish (optional)
Instructions
- Begin by taking a large veal breast (about 5.5–6.5 lbs), and roast it in a hot oven (400°F) until it is half-cooked and golden outside—roughly 40–50 minutes.
- Remove the bones and most of the skin while it's still warm, then set aside and allow to cool until just warm.
- For the stuffing, finely chop or crumble two small parboiled sweetbreads (about 9 oz combined) and mix them with a teaspoon of finely grated lemon zest (peel), two chopped anchovy fillets, and 2 oz of pickled oysters (chopped, or substitute with jarred mussels if unavailable).
- Add 1 oz finely chopped beef suet (or beef fat), one tablespoon of chopped capers, 1/2 teaspoon each of grated nutmeg and ground mace, 2.5 oz chopped mushrooms, and 1.75 oz chopped cockles or substitute with small clams.
- Mix everything together, then use the mixture to stuff the thickest part of the veal breast, securing with kitchen twine if necessary.
- Place the stuffed veal, thick side down, in a heavy casserole or Dutch oven.
- Add about 3 1/4 cups strong beef or veal broth to partially submerge the meat.
- Bring to a simmer and stew gently for around 45 minutes.
- At the halfway point, add 1/2 cup (one gill) of dry white wine, a strip of lemon peel, and a whole onion studded with cloves.
- In a small bowl, mix two egg yolks, a pinch of nutmeg, one tablespoon flour, and 8 oz (half a pound) of softened butter.
- Gradually whisk some hot broth into the mixture, then stir it into the simmering sauce near the end to thicken and enrich.
- For garnish, slice and parboil two or three bunches of asparagus (‘brushes’ in the text), then fry them until browned in butter.
- Once the veal is tender, transfer to a platter, arrange the fried asparagus around, ladle over the thickened sauce, garnish with lemon slices, and scatter over some extra pickled oysters if you like.
- Serve hot.
Estimated Calories
850 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this dish takes some time because you need to roast and cool the veal, make the stuffing, stuff the veal, stew it, and finish the sauce and garnishes. Cooking itself takes a bit under 2 hours, but prepping everything will also take about an hour. The recipe is rich and meant to feed a crowd, so each slice is quite filling.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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