To Make A Cake
From the treasured pages of The Lady Cravens Receipt Book
Written by Elizabeth Craven, Baroness Craven
To Make A Cake
"Z: Caven's Take Eight pound of flower when dry'd & Eight pound of Currans well wash'd & pick't. fresh Butter well wash't, three pound & a half, fine Sugar beaten and Sifted one pound,- Cloves & mace an Ounce, of yeast one quart, new milk three pints, 26 Eggs half ye whites taken away, Cittron one pound,- Orang & Lemon peele one pound, Eringo-roots, half a pound; To be mixt as followeth. Lett your flower spice & sugar be very well dry'd then mix them together with a little Salt then rub in your butterr till you find no lumps, then whisk- your Eggs till very light, then make a whole in your flower & poure them in, sprinkle a little flower over them & so lett it stand till you prepare your milk and Yeast; Make your milk pretty warme but not scalding hott, then mix your yeast with it, then gently mix your Eggs and flower a little but not to become dry, then strain in your other liquor a little at first, & so by degrees till all is mixt, then clear your your pan by gathering all your past together, sprinkle a little flower on ye topp, And you will find your past tough and to heave under your fingers when prest, which is a sign of it's being good, then cover it with a Napkin & sett it before ye fire to rise, then plump your Currants with a pin of Sack and a little Rose-watter make them hott & mix them with your Cake, into your hoop well butterrd, lett your paper be as high above ye hoop as it is deep, which will in a great measure prevent scorching; Lett your oven be made thouroughly hott, & then sweep't, And lett ye scorching heat go of, then put in your Cake, But do not stop your oven till 'tis well risen, otherwise it will haden ye top & so prevent it's Riseing The Ice for it. Take ye whites of tenn Eggs, whisk them till they are very stiff, then by degrees mix in fine sugar well sifted till it is very stiff, then when your Cake is warme, spread it thick all over; You may perfume it with Amber-greese if you please"
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in kitchen English of the early 18th century: quantities are enormous, ingredients are listed within the method, and the spelling varies wildly—even within a sentence. Expect spellings like 'ye' for 'the', or 'flower' for 'flour'. This cake is designed for huge households or feasts, hence the massive scale. Instructions rely on personal sensory judgement: 'pretty warme but not scalding', or 'whisk your eggs till very light.' Remember, technical precision was less important than experience and touch, and much was left to the cook’s own expertise. The icing—sometimes called 'ice'—is an early version of royal icing, here made simply by whisking egg whites and sugar. If ambergris is mentioned, it is always optional and used sparingly; modern cooks should skip it or use perfumed waters instead.
Title
The Lady Cravens Receipt Book (1703)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Elizabeth Craven, Baroness Craven
Era
1703
Publisher
Coome Abbey
Background
A delectable manuscript brimming with 18th-century English delights, Lady Craven's receipt book whisks readers from luscious cakes and puddings to savory feasts and creamy cheeses. Elegantly organized and sprinkled with recipes from an illustrious social circle, this culinary collection offers a sumptuous taste of aristocratic home economics.
Kindly made available by
Penn State University
This spectacular cake recipe comes from the manuscript recipe book of Lady Elizabeth Craven, written between 1702 and 1704, when England’s aristocracy was captivated by both local and global flavors. The book, compiled at Coombe Abbey, reflects a culinary world at the cusp of the modern: luxury ingredients like candied fruits, spices from the East, imported currants, and even exotic essences such as ambergris (from whales!) appear alongside English-made butter and flour. The cake typifies the festive, showstopper bakes of the upper class, intended for grand tables—think of these as the forerunners of our modern fruitcakes, yet far more delicately spiced and sometimes eaten fresh, not mature. Lady Craven’s careful records also highlight how recipes travelled among social circles, with attributions to friends, relations, and the broader landed gentry—a reminder that recipe sharing has always been in vogue.
Back in Lady Craven’s day, no stand-mixer or digital scale would have graced her kitchen. Instead, all measurements would have been performed with large wooden or pewter bowls, balance scales with weights, and robust wooden spoons. Eggs might have been whisked with bundles of twigs or wire whisks; the heavy dough kneaded in vast, shallow earthenware pans, and risen close to the kitchen hearth for gentle warmth. Baking was done in wood-fired brick ovens, carefully swept clean before use and skilfully managed to deliver the right heat—no easy feat! The cake tin, known as a hoop, would be lined with heavily greased parchment (sometimes even brown paper) with a tall collar to prevent burning the top. Icing was made by hand, with a large whisk or feathers, and spread thickly with a flat knife or spatula.
Prep Time
1 hr 30 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs 30 mins
Servings
32
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 8 lb strong white wheat flour
- 8 lb dried currants
- 3 lb 8 oz unsalted butter
- 1 lb fine white sugar
- 1 oz ground cloves
- 1 oz ground mace
- 1 pint 13 fl oz fresh brewer’s yeast (or 3 oz active dried yeast, dissolved)
- 3 pints whole milk
- 26 eggs (13 whole, 13 yolks)
- 1 lb candied citron
- 1 lb mixed candied orange and lemon peel
- 8 oz candied eringo root (substitute: candied angelica or glucose stem ginger)
- 1–2 tbsp rosewater
- 4 fl oz sweet sherry or white wine (substitute for sack)
- Icing: 10 egg whites
- 1 lb 12 oz icing sugar (or as needed)
- Pinch salt
- Optional: a touch of ambergris essence or rosewater for perfume
Instructions
- To make this grand early-18th-century cake, begin by thoroughly drying 8 lb of strong white flour and mixing it with 1 lb of fine granulated sugar, 1 oz each of ground cloves and mace, and a teaspoon of salt.
- Prepare 8 lb of currants by rinsing and picking over them well; set aside.
- Rub 3 lb 8 oz of unsalted butter into your dry ingredients until no lumps remain.
- In a separate bowl, whisk 26 eggs (using 13 yolks and 13 whole eggs) until light and frothy.
- Make a well in your flour mixture and pour the eggs inside—don’t stir just yet.
- Warm 3 pints of whole milk until just warm (not hot), stir in 1 pint 13 fl oz of fresh baker’s yeast (or 3 oz of dried yeast as a substitute, dissolved in the milk), and add this gently to the mixture, combining to make a soft, slightly sticky dough.
- You may need to work in stages to evenly mix all the liquid in, until the dough is cohesive.
- Knead lightly, dust with flour, and let rise, covered, in a warm place for 1-2 hours or until doubled.
- Meanwhile, gently warm the currants in a splash of sweet sherry or white wine (substitute for sack), with 1-2 tbsp rosewater.
- Chop 1 lb of candied citron, and 1 lb of mixed candied orange and lemon peel.
- For eringo root, use 8 oz of candied angelica as a substitute.
- Once risen, fold fruit and peels into the dough.
- Pack into a large well-buttered and paper-lined tin (tall parchment collar).
- Bake in a thoroughly preheated oven at around 325°F for 2-2.5 hours, or until a skewer comes out clean.
- Cool briefly.
- For the icing, whisk 10 egg whites to stiff peaks, then gradually beat in 1 lb 12 oz of sifted icing sugar, until thick.
- Frost the warm cake generously.
- Optionally, add a touch of ambergris essence or rosewater for fragrant authenticity.
Estimated Calories
950 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this cake takes time because you need to measure, mix, knead, and allow the dough to rise, then bake and ice the finished cake. The large quantity of ingredients makes prep take longer than usual. We estimate the calories based on the full recipe divided by the number of servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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