Recipe Manuscript

To Make Jam

Name: To Make Jam
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT4H
Yield: 20
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1 kg yellow quinces, peeled and cored; 500 g yellow peaches, peeled and stoned (or apricots as substitute); 1.5 kg white granulated sugar; 150 ml rosewater (food grade); Water for boiling quinces

1738

From the treasured pages of Cookery book of Ann Goodenough

Written by Ann Goodenough

Culinary Enlightenment (1700 - 1800)European Intermediate Dessert Snack Breakfast

Original Recipe • 1738

Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Make Jam

"To buy & Sele Take yellow pared quinces, & parboile them reason- able tender, & when they be cold, pare them &scrape all yp pulps from yp. core, then take to every pound of quinces, halfe a pound of yel- low pulps of yellow peaches, then pound them find in a stone morter, then take as much Sugar as the pulps doth weigh, & boyle it to a candy heigh, with as much rose water as will melt the sugar; when your sugar is boiled to that heigh. put in yp pulps of yp fruit, &sto Let it boyle together alwayes stirring it, &when you see it is something thick, fashion it is upon a py͡d plate, some like Leaues, & some like halfe fruits, then put it into an oven After you have drawn bread &so let it remaine in y͡ oven till y͡ next day, then you may turn it, & heat the oven again, but not too hot for discollouring of it, for when it is throughly dry you may keep it all yp year"

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in the characteristically brief, semi-phonetic prose of an early modern English manuscript, with abbreviations (like 'yp' for 'the' or 'the pulp'). Directions are sequential and assume a working familiarity with basic jam- and candy-making. Spelling variants ('boyle' for 'boil', 'heigh' for 'height', 'parboile' for 'parboil') reflect the fluid orthography of the time before English spelling was standardized. Quantities and times are subjective and determined by experience rather than precise measurement, typical of the era’s practical cooking tradition.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cookery book of Ann Goodenough - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookery book of Ann Goodenough (1738)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Ann Goodenough

Era

1738

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful journey into the kitchens of early 18th-century England, this collection captures the flair and flavors of its time with recipes crafted by the inventive Ann Goodenough. Expect a charming medley of hearty roasts, comforting pies, and time-honored confections, perfect for those wishing to dine as they did in Georgian days.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe is drawn from the personal household manuscript of Ann Goodenough, dating to between 1700 and 1775. During this time in England, home preserves and 'sweetmeats' were an important part of domestic economy and hospitality. Quince-based pastes and preserves had become fashionable, often displayed in decorative shapes, and flavored subtly with rosewater. Sugar was expensive, but increasingly accessible, making fruit confections a real treat for middle and upper-class households. Goodenough's recipe reflects the era's blending of luxury and practicality, showcasing not just culinary skill but also craftsmanly presentation. The slow oven drying method turned the jam into a firm, glossy delicacy: somewhere between modern jam and fruit paste.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In the 18th century kitchen, the cook would use a large brass or copper preserving pan, a sturdy stone mortar and pestle to finely pound the fruit pulp, and a sugar thermometer wasn’t available—doneness was judged visually or by texture. For shaping the finished paste, pie plates (shallow metal pans) or dishes would be used, sometimes with carved or wooden molds for fancier presentation. The drying was done in a bread oven after the baking was finished and the temperature had dropped. Spoons and knives for stirring and peeling, as well as cloths to handle the hot sugar, were essential. Rosewater was stored in glass bottles as an aromatic confectioner’s staple.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

4 hrs

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

2.2 lbs yellow quinces, peeled and cored
1.1 lbs yellow peaches, peeled and stoned (or apricots as substitute)
3.3 lbs white granulated sugar
2/3 cup rosewater (food grade)
Water for boiling quinces

Instructions

To make this delightful historical quince and peach jam, first peel and core yellow quinces (about 2.2 lbs), and roughly chop them.
Parboil the quinces in water until they are just tender but still hold their shape (about 15-20 minutes).
Let them cool, then process them into a pulp, discarding cores and skins.
Next, add half as much yellow peach pulp (about 1.1 lbs) to the quinces.
Mash all the fruit together thoroughly, or pulse in a food processor for a smooth texture.
Weigh your combined fruit pulp – for every 3.3 lbs of fruit pulp here, use 3.3 lbs of white sugar.
In a heavy-bottomed pan, dissolve the sugar in about 2/3 cup of food-grade rosewater.
Bring this mixture to a boil, heating it to the ‘soft-ball’ stage (around 234-240°F), stirring constantly to prevent burning.
Once the syrup reaches temperature, add in your fruit puree, stir continuously, and boil gently until the mixture thickens and holds its shape when mounded (about 20-30 minutes).
Spread the hot jam onto parchment-lined baking sheets, forming into leaf or fruit shapes if you like.
Allow to dry in a very low oven (about 175-210°F), ideally with the door slightly ajar, for several hours or until leathery.
Turn once, and let dry further if needed.
Store the finished jam pieces in an airtight container; they can last for several months.

Estimated Calories

160 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 20 minutes to parboil the quinces, then around 30-40 minutes to cook the jam and dry it in the oven for several hours. Preparing the fruit and workspace usually takes about 30 minutes. Each piece or serving contains about 160 calories, and this recipe makes 20 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.