To Make Browne Waffers

This recipe comes from a manuscript attributed to Ann Goodenough, likely written between 1700 and 1775 in England. During this period, domestic cookery was recorded in handwritten books and was largely the domain of women running households. Recipes like this one reflect the growing availability of sugar, cream, and fine wheat flour, all luxury ingredients by earlier standards, and show the influence of European pastry-making traditions (such as light, crisp pastries) on English home baking. Waffers like these would have been served as an elegant treat for guests, prized for their delicate texture and sweetness. The custom of storing them in a tin box by the fire speaks to the constant struggle in historic kitchens to keep baked goods from becoming tough or stale in damp or drafty conditions.

The original cook would have used waffer tongs or irons—metal clamps with engraved designs, heated over a charcoal fire to achieve the ideal temperature. A small brush or rag rubbed with sweet butter was used to grease the irons, ensuring the batter didn’t stick. Once baked, the waffers were quickly shaped by hand, possibly rolling them around a wooden dowel or simply forming by touch. Finally, waffers were stored in a tin box beside the hearth to keep them crisp. Today, a modern electric waffle cone maker or pizzelle iron serves the same purpose; baking sheets and spatulas can aid in shaping the waffers while they are still hot and pliable.