Spinage Toasts Mrs Kelsal'S
From the treasured pages of Cookery and medicinal recipes of Dorothy Pennyman
Written by Dorothy Pennyman
Spinage Toasts Mrs Kelsal'S
"To 1/2 a pt of juice of Spinage, put 9 Eggs, & sugar to yr taste, ye rind of a Lemmon graited, or 1/2 a candie'd Orange pele cut small, some Nutmeg graited, Butter about ye bigness of an Egg, 2 Naple Bisketts graited or about yt quantity of bread - keep it stirring, & set it on a gentle fire, & still continue it stirring till it is as thick as hasty puding, then take it off & squeeze in ye juice of a Lemmon, or Orange, then with butterr in ye pan fry toasts of french bread & lay this thick upon them, dip your hand in butterr & put ym into Shape, sift some fine, - sugar over them & set ym on a Masarine in ye Oven to crisp.. send them - to Table with Lemmon & Orang in pieces round ye dish."
Note on the Original Text
In the 18th century, recipes were more conversational than prescriptive—there were no strict instructions, but an expectation that the cook understood both ingredients and technique. Spelling was idiosyncratic ('spinage' for spinach, 'ye' for the, 'graited' for grated) and measures relied on common knowledge ('butter about the bigness of an egg'). Readers were assumed to grasp timing and texture cues by experience: 'thick as hasty pudding' means custard-thick, while 'set it on a gentle fire' calls for careful heat management. These charmingly elliptical directions invite the modern cook to taste, touch, and trust their instincts.
Title
Cookery and medicinal recipes of Dorothy Pennyman (1730)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Dorothy Pennyman
Era
1730
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful glimpse into early Georgian kitchens, this culinary manuscript compiled by Dorothy Pennyman showcases the elegant tastes and recipes of 18th-century England—perfect for those hungry for a taste of history.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from the early eighteenth century, compiled by Dorothy Pennyman around 1730, a time when English kitchens were full of both innovation and resourceful adaptation. Green vegetables like spinach were appreciated for their vibrant color and nourishing qualities, and custard-like mixes enriched with eggs were popular among the upper classes. Spinage Toasts would have been served as a luxurious breakfast dish or a sweet supper treat, offering a hint of exotic citrus—a mark of refinement and access to imported goods like candied orange peel and Neapolitan biscuits.
The original cook would have used a mortar and pestle or a sieve to extract spinach juice, heavy copper pans over a gentle fire to heat and thicken the mixture, and a robust wooden spoon for diligent stirring. To fry the toasts, an iron or brass frying pan and a fire-heated hearth were essential. A masarine, a pierced baking sheet or rack, would allow the finished toasts to dry in a warm oven, while a fine sieve or special sugar dredger would add that final snowy dusting of sugar.
Prep Time
35 mins
Cook Time
25 mins
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb fresh spinach (to yield ~1 cup juice)
- 9 large eggs
- 1/3 cup (2.6 oz) caster sugar (adjust to taste)
- Zest of 1 lemon, finely grated (or 2 oz candied orange peel, chopped)
- 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
- 2 oz unsalted butter (plus extra for frying and shaping)
- 2 Neapolitan biscotti, finely grated (or 1.75 oz / 1/3 cup fine breadcrumbs as substitute)
- 1 French baguette (for toasts)
- Juice of 1 lemon (or orange)
- Confectioners' sugar, for dusting
- Lemon and orange wedges, for garnish
Instructions
- Start by blanching about 1 lb (16 oz) of fresh spinach, then press it through a sieve or blend it to extract the juice—aim for roughly 1 cup (8 fl oz) of spinach juice.
- In a bowl, whisk together the juice with 9 large eggs, 1/3 cup (2.6 oz) caster sugar (or to taste), the finely grated zest of 1 lemon, or alternatively, about 2 oz (1/2 of a 4 oz package) of candied orange peel finely chopped, and about 1/2 teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg.
- Add 2 oz unsalted butter (about the size of a large egg) and 2 Neapolitan biscotti (or about 1.75 oz (1/3 cup) of fine breadcrumbs if not available).
- Place the mixture into a saucepan over low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens to a custard-like or soft porridge (hasty pudding) consistency.
- Remove from the heat and stir in the juice of 1 lemon or orange.
- Separately, fry thick slices of French bread in butter until golden.
- Spread the thickened spinach mixture generously over the toasts, shaping it with your buttered hands for a polished finish.
- Dust with confectioners' sugar, then place the toasts onto a tray (or 'masarine') and put them in the oven at 350°F to lightly crisp and set the tops.
- Serve on a platter with lemon and orange wedges decoratively arranged around the toasts.
Estimated Calories
310 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend time making the spinach juice, preparing the ingredients, and mixing everything to a custard before finishing in the oven. Most of the time is hands-on. Each toast is rich and filling, with calories mainly from eggs, butter, bread, and sugar.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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