Recipe Manuscript

To Imitate Westphalia Hamme

Name: To Imitate Westphalia Hamme
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT10H
Yield: 20
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1 whole pork leg, bone-in, 4–5 kg (fattest possible); 1 kg coarse sea salt (bay salt); 25 g saltpetre (potassium nitrate; food-grade, optional, use with care or omit for safety); 400 ml pork blood (or substitute: 400 ml pork stock, beetroot juice, or omit); Clean canvas or cheesecloth (enough to wrap ham); Water, as needed for boiling

1698

From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading

Written by Ann Smith

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Advanced Dinner Lunch Other

Original Recipe • 1698

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Imitate Westphalia Hamme

"Take the fatest Leggs of Porke Cutt ym outt Westphalia fashion & rubb them over with Blood & salt rubb them over with salt petor and bay salt each a like quantity Lay them upon A Brick for 9 or 10 Days then rubb them over with Blood againe & salt as before & Lay ond nott so longer then pow them up in A piece of Canvas single & hang them in a Chimney & take Care no moyst Comes to them & when you have a mind to boyl it for 10 Houres till A Straw will run quite Through it & Scoop it till it is Cold."

Note on the Original Text

Recipes from this era used spellings and abbreviations that can seem odd today—'leggs of porke' for legs of pork, 'boyl' for boil, 'blood & salt' combining fresh blood and salt as part of the cure, and instructions like 'till a straw will run quite through it' to test tenderness. Quantities are imprecise, assuming the cook's familiarity with the process and ability to adapt to the size of the meat. Written in a dense, procedural style with little punctuation, the recipe prioritizes chronology over measurements, reflecting oral tradition and skilled household management typical of late 17th-century English manuscript cookery.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading (1698)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Ann Smith

Era

1698

Publisher

Unknown

Background

Step into the sumptuous kitchens of 17th-century England with Ann Smith’s culinary treasury, where traditional recipes and time-honored techniques invite you to savor the flavors of history. Each page promises a feast of inspiration and a glimpse into the artful dining of a bygone era.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe comes from Ann Smith, dating to 1698, a period when English cooks were keen on replicating continental delicacies, in this case, the prized smoked hams from Westphalia (now part of Germany). Such recipes reflect the international influences on English gentry kitchens and their desire to reproduce famous European flavors using locally sourced ingredients and practical adaptations. Curing and preserving meat was essential before refrigeration, and recipes like this show both the technical skill and culinary curiosity of household cooks at the dawn of the eighteenth century.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Historically, the preparation required a large wooden or stone surface (or bricks) for salting the meat, a sharp knife for trimming, and plenty of clean cloth or canvas for wrapping. Hams were hung either in kitchen fireplaces, purpose-built smokehouses, or airy storerooms, strung up with strong cord. For cooking, a large cauldron or pot over an open hearth fire would have been used, with straw for testing doneness. Turning the ham during curing and ensuring dry air circulation were key elements of the process. In modern interpretation, a refrigerator and a smoker, or even a well-ventilated pantry, can fulfill these traditional functions.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

10 hrs

Servings

Ingredients

1 whole pork leg, bone-in, 9–11 lb (fattest possible)
2.2 lb coarse sea salt (bay salt)
0.9 oz saltpetre (potassium nitrate; food-grade, optional, use with care or omit for safety)
14 fl oz pork blood (or substitute: 14 fl oz pork stock, beetroot juice, or omit)
Clean canvas or cheesecloth (enough to wrap ham)
Water, as needed for boiling

Instructions

To make your own imitation of Westphalian ham, start with the fattest pork leg you can find, around 9–11 lb.
Trim it out in the style of a classic smoked ham, leaving the bone in.
Prepare a rub using equal parts of fine cooking salt (bay salt), saltpetre (potassium nitrate, use with care—about 0.9 oz per 2.2 lb salt), and, if desired, a substitute for fresh blood: thick pork stock, or even beetroot juice for a modern twist—about 7 fl oz per application.
Rub this curing mixture and 'blood' over the pork thoroughly.
Place the ham on a rack or bricks in a cool spot and leave for 9–10 days, turning occasionally.
After this, repeat the rub with more 'blood' and salt as before, but cure for a shorter time (about 5 days).
Next, wrap the ham in a single layer of clean canvas or cheesecloth.
Hang it in a well-ventilated area with gentle smoke, or at least where it stays dry and airy, for several weeks to develop the flavor—a traditional fireplace or modern smoker would work.
When you’re ready to eat, boil the ham, very gently, for 10 hours or until a straw easily pierces the meat, then let it cool in the cooking liquid before serving.

Estimated Calories

550 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It usually takes just a few minutes to prep the ingredients, but most time is spent curing the ham and cooking it very slowly until tender. The calorie estimate is based on a typical serving size of cooked ham.