White Ambergrease Cakes
From the treasured pages of Cookbook
Unknown Author
White Ambergrease Cakes
"Take the purest refined Sugar you can get beat and search it then take the white of new laid Eggs beat them to froth take the froth as it riseth and drop it in the Sugar by litle grinding it still in a marble morter with pistell till it be wrought thin enough to drop in plates then beat some ambergrease and civet in a litle sugar and put it in your stuff with some annat seeds well picked then a foll plate butterr it and drop it in spoonfulls in the form of round cakes put them in a very mild oven and when you see them rise a litle and grow hard take them out."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe, like many from its time, is written as a fluid set of instructions rather than in the step-by-step format modern cooks expect. It assumes a degree of familiarity with kitchen processes—quantities are vague ('the purest refined sugar you can get') and success depends on the cook's intuition. Older spellings and terms appear, such as 'search' for sift, 'stuff' for mixture, and 'annat seeds,' likely a variant spelling referring to anise seeds. The recipe was intended to be interpreted and adapted by an experienced household cook, rather than a beginner or apprentice.
Title
Cookbook (1706)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1706
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step back to the early 18th century with this charming culinary collection, brimming with period recipes that tantalize the tastebuds and offer a delicious glimpse into historic kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from early 18th-century England, dating to approximately 1706. At the time, 'cakes' referred not exclusively to sponge cakes as we know them, but often meant small, delicate confections meant for banqueting or special occasions. The use of ambergris and civet—both rare, expensive, and exotic animal-derived aromatics—signals the luxurious status of this treat, reserved for the elite or for very special feasts. Such ingredients showcased wealth and international trade connections, making these cakes not just a culinary delight but a status symbol. The recipe is preserved from a handwritten collection, reflecting the era's fascination with spice, aromatics, and novel forms of sugar work.
Back in 1706, cooks would have used a marble mortar and pestle to grind the sugar and spices finely, ensuring a smooth paste. Egg whites would be whipped with a bundle of twigs or a small whisk to a frothy consistency. Baking was done in a brick oven, with heat carefully managed by the baker’s experience—one had to judge what qualified as a 'very mild oven.' Metal or ceramic plates would be buttered for baking, and cakes were shaped by hand or with a spoon.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 7 oz caster sugar (superfine white sugar)
- 2 egg whites (from very fresh eggs)
- Pinch dried edible ambergris (or a drop vanilla or musk extract as substitute)
- Pinch edible civet (omit, or use a dab of vanilla or amber extract as substitute)
- 1/2 tsp anise seeds (or fennel seeds, well-cleaned and picked)
- Butter, for greasing
Instructions
- Begin by taking about 7 oz of the finest, pure white caster sugar you can find.
- Sift the sugar well to ensure it is perfectly smooth and free of lumps.
- Separate the whites from two very fresh eggs and whisk the whites until they form a stiff froth.
- Gently collect just the froth—airy and light—and gradually fold it into the sugar, working the mixture together in a bowl (or a mortar if you want to stay authentic) until you have a paste that is thin enough to drop in spoonfuls, but not liquid.
- Next, take a pinch of culinary ambergris (if available; otherwise, use a hint of vanilla or musk for aroma) and civet (virtually impossible to source now, so omit or use a dab of amber or vanilla extract).
- Grind these fragrant ingredients into some sugar to distribute evenly.
- Add this aromatic sugar into your egg and sugar mixture, along with a good pinch (1/2 teaspoon) of well-picked anise seeds (or sweet fennel seeds if preferred).
- Prepare a baking tray by buttering it lightly.
- Drop the mixture by rounded teaspoons onto the tray, shaping them as neat round cakes.
- Bake in a very low oven (about 250°F/120°C) just until the cakes have puffed slightly and are firm but not colored—this will only take about 10-15 minutes.
- Remove as soon as they set and let cool completely before serving.
Estimated Calories
60 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 15 minutes to prepare the ingredients and mixture. Baking takes another 15 minutes. Each serving is about 60 calories. This recipe makes around 12 small cakes.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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