To Dry Damsons
From the treasured pages of Cook-book of Margaret Turner
Written by Margaret Eyre

To Dry Damsons
"Take 6 pound of Damasins & 2 pound of shuger stoneyr damasins & fill them full of shuger & lay them in an earthen pot stro ye remainder of ye shuger in with them, put in a litle water just to wet the shuger, coffer them close & set them into ye oven hot anough for bisket, so let them stand 2 or 3 howers, the next day give them a boyle then take them out & lay them in the stowe to dry, when thay are dry thay will be apt to candy if you dislike that dip them in scattoring water & dry them sudenly & thay will look blew, other plums will doe the same way onely let them ly in the surrup 2 or 3 days before you lay them out & you may dry them in a warm oven, turning them often"
Note on the Original Text
This recipe, like most from early modern England, is written in conversational prose with imprecise measurements and instructions assuming a knowledgeable reader. Units like 'pound' refer to the old avoirdupois, close to modern metric. Spellings are non-standard: 'shuger' for sugar, 'boyle' for boil, 'stowe' for drying rack or sieve. The instructions refer to ambient knowledge, such as oven temperature 'hot anough for bisket', requiring interpretation. Such recipes often offer advice for variation ('other plums will doe the same way') and include tips to remedy common problems, like candying.

Title
Cook-book of Margaret Turner (1709)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Margaret Eyre
Era
1709
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the refined world of early 18th-century cookery with Margaret Eyre, where recipes are whispered secrets and culinary wonders await. From hearty roasts to delicate sweets, this charming tome serves up inspiration fit for the tables of historic England.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from the early 18th century, specifically attributed to Margaret Eyre and found in a manuscript dated around 1709. The household manuscript tradition was strong in England at this time, particularly among women of standing who compiled recipes for medicinal and culinary use. Preserving fruit was crucial before refrigeration, allowing damsons and plums to last through winter months—a prized treat. The use of earthenware pots hints at domestic life in an upper-class English home. Recipes like this also offer a glimpse into the evolving sugar trade, as sugar became increasingly available and affordable in England at the end of the 17th century.

In the early 1700s, cooks prepared this preserve in sturdy earthenware or ceramic pots, using a wood-fired oven made hot enough for baking biscuits—slightly cooler than bread ovens. Fruit was pitted with a small knife and drying racks or shallow woven 'stowes' (sieves or trays) were used for air drying. A tight-fitting lid or possibly a leather ‘coffer’ was used to seal in moisture during the early cooking phase. The modern version can use a large baking dish or casserole, foil or lid for covering, and a cooling rack or parchment for drying the fruit.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
3 hrs
Servings
18
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 6 lbs damson plums (fresh, firm and ripe)
- 2 lbs granulated sugar (or caster sugar as a substitute)
- 2-3 tbsp water
Instructions
- To make this preserved damson recipe with modern ingredients, start by weighing 6 lbs of damson plums and 2 lbs of granulated sugar.
- Cut open the washed damsons and fill their cavities with some of the sugar, then layer them in a large ceramic or stoneware pot, sprinkling the remaining sugar over the top.
- Add just enough water (about 2-3 tablespoons) to lightly moisten the sugar.
- Cover the pot tightly with a lid or foil.
- Place it in an oven preheated to 300°F (fan 265°F) for about 2-3 hours.
- On the following day, heat the contents again gently to bring them just to the boil, then carefully remove the damsons from the syrup and place them on a wire rack or parchment to dry.
- Allow them to dry until no longer sticky, turning them often.
- If candied crystals appear and are not desired, dip fruit quickly in clean water and dry them swiftly; this helps the damsons retain a deep blue hue.
- Other varieties of plums may be prepared similarly, but they benefit from sitting in their syrup for 2-3 days before drying.
- Dry in a slightly warm oven or an electric dehydrator, turning often to ensure even drying.
Estimated Calories
200 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing the damsons and layering them with sugar takes about 30 minutes. The damsons then cook in the oven for 2-3 hours, and on the next day, they are brought to a boil and dried, which takes extra time but is simple to do in steps. Each serving of candied damsons is sweet and rich in sugar.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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