Recipe Manuscript

伊勢海老

"Spiny Lobster"

1642

From the treasured pages of Ryōri shitsuke hō

Unknown Author

伊勢海老
Original Recipe • 1642
Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

伊勢海老

"さし身のことうつきとて海中とさし身ハ海面は塩一つあり石つらら氷りふし塩ふきあふさにて又海中ととらへ少し汁のうきは実一ツほうちやうにて庖丁よこ一文字にきりそろへ又ふたつわりにして生姜るり煮の汁いり酒少々ふりかけるなり次にわさびもるべし又一品あらいにてもつくんとて今白と云ふことあり又ハゆでて皮をむきていり酒ふる事あり藻塩いろとよくして海中と"

English Translation

"For sashimi, slice and set aside, representing it as if it were still in the sea; for sashimi, sprinkle a little salt on the surface as if it were the sea, and also prepare a dish of brine and salt as if it were seaweed. Again, capture it as if underwater, let a little of its juice float, and place a piece of its flesh on a tray. Using a kitchen knife, make a horizontal cut, neatly arranging it, then split it in two. Sprinkle a bit of the liquid used for simmering ginger and add a little sake. Next, garnish with wasabi. Another dish is called 'arai,' where the meat is quickly rinsed, currently referred to as 'shiro.' Alternatively, you may boil, peel off the shell, and sprinkle with sake. Use seaweed salt to enhance the color, and present it as though it were in the sea."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in a compressed, telegraphic style typical of early Edo-period cookbooks. Cooking texts of the time assume familiarity with ingredient handling and context, offering minimal measurements and sometimes omitting step-by-step instructions or exact ingredient amounts. Variants are casually referenced, reflecting oral traditions and the flexibility expected in the hands of practiced cooks. Many terms—such as 'arai,' 'shiro,' and 'as if from the sea'—are poetic idioms still used in Japanese culinary arts. Spellings reflect Early Modern Japanese; words and expressions may differ from modern usage, but intent is clear to chefs steeped in the period's culinary language.

Recipe's Origin
Ryōri shitsuke hō - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Ryōri shitsuke hō (1642)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Unknown

Era

1642

Publisher

Nakamura Juemon

Background

A culinary gem from early Edo-period Japan, this block-printed manual serves up a fascinating glimpse into the art and etiquette of Japanese cooking, guiding readers through refined techniques and traditional recipes that delighted 17th-century palates.

Kindly made available by

Library of Congress
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe comes from the Ryōri shitsuke hō, a Japanese cookbook published in 1642 during the early Edo period. At this time, Japanese cuisine was evolving rapidly, with a focus on seasonal ingredients, aesthetics, and careful attention to technique and presentation. Spiny lobster was a prestigious ingredient, symbolizing luxury and celebration. Sashimi was reserved for special occasions and handled with the utmost care. The recipe embodies Edo-period culinary principles: minimal seasoning to highlight the natural taste of premium seafood, inventive uses of temperature and texture, and an emphasis on serving dishes in harmony with their natural environment—here, using seaweed, chilled stones, and salt to evoke the sea itself.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

In the 17th century, cooks would have used a traditional Japanese kitchen knife (such as a hōchō) for precise slicing. Stone or wooden bowls were utilized for chilling the lobster meat, filled with cold, salty water and ice or snow when available. Mortar and pestle (suribachi) was used for grating fresh wasabi and ginger. Presentation dishes were likely made from lacquered wood or ceramic, sometimes decorated with seaweed or river stones to keep the fish cool and mimic its ocean habitat.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

15 mins

Cook Time

2 mins

Servings

1

Ingredients

  • 1 live or very fresh spiny lobster (Ise ebi), approximately 1 lb 2 oz – 1 lb 5 oz (18–21 oz)
  • Coarse sea salt, approx. 1/2 tablespoon
  • Ice cubes for chilling water
  • Fresh ginger root, thumb-sized piece (approx. 3/4 oz)
  • Sake, 1/3–2/3 tablespoon (1–2 teaspoons)
  • Soy sauce, 1/3–2/3 tablespoon (1–2 teaspoons, as substitute for the ginger broth plus sake)
  • Fresh grated wasabi or wasabi paste, as desired
  • Seaweed or edible kelp for garnish (optional)
  • Rustic sea salt (such as fleur de sel or flaky salt), for final seasoning

Instructions

  1. Begin by preparing a spiny lobster (Ise ebi), ideally live or as fresh as possible.
  2. For sashimi, carefully remove the tail meat.
  3. Rinse briefly in salty ice water to firm the flesh and remove any surface sliminess.
  4. Slice the meat horizontally into neat, even pieces, about 3/8 inch thick.
  5. Arrange the pieces artfully, optionally splitting them into two lengthwise.
  6. Lightly drizzle with a little soy sauce melded with sake and the strained juice from ginger simmered in water.
  7. Serve with freshly grated wasabi on the side.
  8. Alternatively, for an 'arai' (chilled style), blanch the lobster pieces in near-boiling water, then plunge immediately into ice water; this will result in a firmer, whiter appearance often referred to as 'shiro' (white).
  9. Or try boiling the lobster until just cooked, peel off the shell, and sprinkle the meat with a little sake.
  10. Serve with a rustic, briny sea salt and more wasabi, presenting the pieces as if from the sea itself, over seaweed or chilled stones.

Estimated Calories

120 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing lobster sashimi involves chilling and slicing the raw lobster tail, which takes about 15 minutes. If you choose the 'arai' (chilled or blanched) or briefly cooked version, it only takes a couple of extra minutes for blanching or simmering. Each serving contains around 120 calories, mostly from lobster tail meat. This recipe yields one generous serving.

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