To Make Conserve Of Oranges
From the treasured pages of Receipts for cookery and pastry work
Written by Mrs. Johnston
To Make Conserve Of Oranges
"Take your oranges and grate them, and to every pound of Grate; take three pound of fine Suggar, beat the Suggar and parch it; take the grate and beat it, and put in the Suggar by Degrees, with a little of the Joice of the oranges; when all the Suggar is in, and well beaten, Stir it about every Day for eight or ten Days, then put it in y Gally-pots."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is characteristic of early modern British cookery, where weights were often given in 'pounds' and instructions were brief, relying on the cook's experience. Spelling was highly variable: 'Suggar' for sugar, 'Grate' for zest, and 'Joice' for juice reflect period orthography. Directions use terms like 'beat' (meaning to grind or work until well-mixed) and 'parch' (to dry gently by heat). The sequence of adding sugar 'by Degrees' is crucial, helping prevent clumping and crystallization in the finished conserve.
Title
Receipts for cookery and pastry work (1700)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mrs. Johnston
Era
1700
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful compilation of 18th-century recipes gathered by Mrs. Johnston herself, promising a charming journey through the flavors and culinary traditions of the early 1700s.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This conserve recipe hails from around 1700, attributed to a Mrs. Johnston, likely an upper- or middle-class homemaker compiling culinary wisdom of the era. Conserve, in this context, refers to a sweet, zesty preserve of candied fruit and sugar, enjoyed as a medicinal treat or as a luxury preserve for desserts and breads. During this time period, oranges were prized imports in Britain, often reserved for confections, medicine, or special occasions, reflecting both their expense and the evolving culture of sugar consumption.
In the early 18th century, cooks would grate the orange peel using a hand-held grater, often a simple piece of metal with punched holes or a rough stone surface. The sugar would be 'beaten' in a large mortar and pestle to achieve a fine consistency and sometimes parched in a brass or iron pan over a gentle fire to dry it out. The mixture would be stirred with long-handled wooden spoons and stored in glazed earthenware 'gally pots'—stout ceramic jars commonly used for preserves. Daily stirring was done by hand to prevent crystallization and ensure a uniform texture.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
0 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb orange zest (from about 8–10 oranges)
- 3 lb fine caster sugar
- Fresh juice of about 2 oranges (approx. 1/3 cup or 3.5 fl oz)
- Optional modern substitute: Use Seville oranges for a more traditional bitter flavor. If not available, use regular oranges with a splash of lemon juice.
Instructions
- Begin by thoroughly washing and drying your oranges.
- Using a fine grater or microplane, grate the zest off the oranges, taking care to avoid the bitter white pith.
- Weigh your orange zest: for every 1 pound of zest, measure out 3 pounds of fine caster sugar.
- Beat (grind) the sugar—this can be done in a food processor or mortar and pestle—to make it finer if you wish.
- Gently heat the sugar in a dry pan, stirring constantly, just until it is warm and slightly parched but not melted, then set aside.
- Combine the orange zest with the sugar in a large mixing bowl, adding a few tablespoons of freshly squeezed orange juice to help bring the mixture together.
- Gradually mix the sugar in by degrees while beating or stirring constantly until smooth.
- Transfer the mixture to a clean glass or ceramic container.
- Stir the conserve daily for 8 to 10 days to help the sugar dissolve fully and the flavors to meld.
- Cover and store in sterilized jars or ceramic pots.
Estimated Calories
230 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 20 minutes to prep the zest and other ingredients, with no additional active cook time since the sugar is only lightly warmed. The recipe yields about 12 servings. Each serving is very sweet and contains about 230 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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