Modo De Hacer Jamón
"How To Make Ham"
From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12
Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Modo De Hacer Jamón
"Las piernas ó espaldillas de cerdo ó de jabalí se separan del animal, se salan suficientemente con salitre puro; se ponen en seguida bajo una prensa y se dejan allí ocho días, y después de haberlos remojado con espíritu de vino, donde se hayan puesto en infusión bayas de enebro molidos ó majadas; después de esta operación se ponen á ahumar y secar al humo de madera de enebro, que se hace secar para esto en lugar proporcionado. Esto es lo que pone á la carne bermeja y le da esa delicadeza y gusto superior que no se encuentran en los otros jamones que vienen de otros paises que no sean de Wesfalia, pues los jamones así son preparados allí."
English Translation
"The legs or shoulders of pork or wild boar are separated from the animal, sufficiently salted with pure saltpeter; they are then placed under a press and left there for eight days, and after having been soaked with spirits of wine in which crushed or ground juniper berries have been infused; after this operation, they are smoked and dried over juniper wood smoke, which is specially dried for this purpose in a suitable place. This is what gives the meat its reddish color and that delicacy and superior taste not found in other hams that come from countries other than Westphalia, for the hams are thus prepared there."
Note on the Original Text
Recipes in the late 1800s assumed a certain culinary fluency: measurements were often vague, ingredient sourcing was assumed to be local or from well-known merchants, and specialized tools were not always described in detail. In this text, ingredients like 'salitre puro' (saltpeter) are referenced casually, reflecting its commonplace use for curing before nitrate fears made it rarer. Spelling and terminology like 'espaldillas' (shoulders) and 'bermeja' (ruddy) are typical of 19th-century Spanish and may differ from modern terms ('paleta' or 'roja'). Overall, the recipe is direct and assumes the reader’s familiarity with extended preservation techniques and with ingredients (such as spirits and juniper) not always readily available today.
Title
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12 (1890)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Era
1890
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful pocket-sized treasure from the numbered series 'Cocina en el Bolsillo', this volume serves up a tempting array of recipes, inviting culinary enthusiasts on a tasteful journey through a variety of traditional foods.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe hails from late 19th-century Mexico, specifically from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12', one of a popular booklet series compiled by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo. The series offered practical advice to households keen on European culinary traditions, blending Old World techniques with local Mexican adaptations. The ham preparation described reflects a fascination with the legendary hams of Westphalia (Germany), once prized across Europe for their rich flavor and red hue, thanks to distinctive smoking and curing methods. The publishing of such a recipe in 1890's Mexico shows the global reach of culinary prestige—and the ambitions of well-to-do home cooks.
Traditional kitchens would use a large salting trough or sturdy wooden table to salt and press the meat. Heavy stone or metal weights (or a wooden screw press) were employed to expel moisture and shape the ham. For the spirit infusion, a simple glass or clay jar was used to steep juniper berries. Smoking would take place in a dedicated smokehouse or a makeshift chamber, with juniper branches burning slowly to create aromatic smoke. Today, a home meat press or even a sealed heavy-duty zip-top bag with weights can suffice, and electric smokers replace the old smokehouse, though the flavor is still best when using natural juniper wood.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
P0D
Servings
40
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole pork leg or pork shoulder (9–13 lb), or wild boar leg (substitute: standard pork if wild boar not available)
- 4.2–6.3 oz pure saltpeter (potassium nitrate) or modern Prague powder #1 (use with caution, do not exceed recommended amounts)
- 6.8 fl oz neutral spirit (e.g., vodka or mild grain alcohol)
- 1.4–2.1 oz juniper berries, crushed
- Juniper wood chips (or a blend of hardwood chips and juniper if pure juniper is unavailable)
Instructions
- To make a classic Westphalian-style ham, select pork legs or shoulders (or wild boar, for a more traditional touch).
- Thoroughly rub each piece with about 0.48 oz of pure saltpeter per pound of meat, covering all surfaces generously with the curing salt mix.
- Place the meat under a heavy weight (such as a modern meat press or several stacked trays with a 22 lb weight) for eight days inside a cold refrigerator, turning it every 2-3 days.
- After pressing and curing, remove the meat and rinse it briefly with a neutral spirit like vodka or a mild grain alcohol (approx.
- 0.8 fl oz per pound), in which you have steeped 0.35 oz of crushed juniper berries for at least two days prior.
- Pat the meat dry, then transfer it to a smoker.
- Smoke the meat for several days (traditionally 3-7 days, depending on climate and desired flavor) using dried juniper wood chips.
- Ensure temperatures stay low and the smoke is steady.
- At the end, allow the ham to dry further for several weeks in a cool, ventilated area before slicing thinly to serve.
Estimated Calories
150 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 30 minutes to prepare the meat and rub it with curing salt. The pressing and curing process lasts 8 days, and smoking takes 3 to 7 days. After smoking, you should let the ham dry for several weeks before serving. Each slice has about 150 calories, and the whole leg makes about 40 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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