How To Dry Morala Cherries

This recipe comes from the manuscript cookbook of Rachel Kirk, dated 1707, at a time when sugar preservation was a prized culinary art. In early eighteenth-century Britain, fruits were often preserved by candying, allowing enjoyment of delicate flavors long after the harvest. The use of loaf sugar and simple pitted fruit emphasizes both economy and skill. The cherries chosen were likely Morello, a favorite of the period, known for their tartness and rich flavor. Kirk’s recipe exemplifies how elite and literate households experimented with fruit preservation as both a domestic art and a symbol of gentility—dried cherries were a luxury, suitable for display and gifting.

Key historical tools included a heavy-bottomed pan or preserving pan for making the syrup, a fireplace or range for gentle heating, and utensils for stoning cherries (a specialist cherry stoner wasn't common, so paring knives and nimble fingers were indispensable). For drying, white plates were placed before the fire on low stools or racks, and sometimes a 'scull' or warm attic was used as a drying chamber. Cherries would be turned by hand to ensure even drying, and a keen eye was needed to avoid overheating, which could ruin the fruit.