To Preserve Morella Cheryes
From the treasured pages of Cookery book of Ann Goodenough
Written by Ann Goodenough

To Preserve Morella Cheryes
"Take one pound of the Fairest Cheryes you can gett Stone them and Take the juice that comes from them in Stoning them then take One pound of good Sugar beat it very Small and throw three quarters of the pound upon the Cheryes Set them To Stand untill the Sugar is almost melted then Set them on a quicke fire and stirr and let them Boyle as fast as possible often Shake them and as they Boyle throw Some of your Sugar upon them that was left of the pound and when you think they are almost enough put into them Something more then a quarter of a pint of the raw Juice of Currants and what remaines of your Sugar and Boyle them more gently Skiming them very cleane when they look cleare and plump and the Sirup with jellery take them of and Scim them as cleane as possible and when they are pretty cold lay them in the glasses one or two rowes as you please. with a little of the Sirup then Strain the remayning Sirup through a Seive and when it is cold lay it over your Cheryes untill you have filled the glasses."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the flowing, conversational style characteristic of manuscripts from the early 18th century. Measurements are less precise and based on practical kitchen weights (the 'pound') and volumes ('quarter of a pint'), so some approximations are needed for modern cooks. Spelling and punctuation are inconsistent ('Cheryes', 'fairst', 'Boyle'), reflecting the English of that era, with a tendency to phonetically capture words or to use variant spellings. Modernization requires converting these weights to grams and volumes to milliliters, making the process more accessible and replicable today.

Title
Cookery book of Ann Goodenough (1738)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Goodenough
Era
1738
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful journey into the kitchens of early 18th-century England, this collection captures the flair and flavors of its time with recipes crafted by the inventive Ann Goodenough. Expect a charming medley of hearty roasts, comforting pies, and time-honored confections, perfect for those wishing to dine as they did in Georgian days.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe originates from the early to mid-18th century, attributed to Ann Goodenough, a woman active between 1700 and 1775. Preserving fruit with sugar was both a culinary pleasure and a necessity in an age before refrigeration. The use of 'Morella Cheryes' signals the preference for tart varieties, which set better and have a livelier flavor when preserved. The addition of currant juice, prized for its acidity and color, creates a more vibrant and tangy preserve, preventing the syrup from becoming too cloying. Preserved fruits such as these were a delicacy, often served in small quantities to accompany desserts or shared among guests at the table.

In the 18th century, cooks would have used a sharp knife or cherry stoner to pit the cherries, a large earthenware or ceramic bowl for maceration, and brass or copper preserving pans set over an open fire for boiling the fruit. Skimming was done with a simple spoon or skimmer crafted from tin or silver. The preserved cherries would be stored in clear glass jars or glasses, covered with parchment or bladder, and tied securely with string.
Prep Time
1 hr 15 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 pound (16 ounces) Morello cherries (or other tart cherries)
- 1 pound (16 ounces) granulated sugar
- 5 fl oz raw red currant juice (can substitute cranberry juice if unavailable)
Instructions
- Start by taking 1 pound (16 ounces) of the finest Morello cherries you can find.
- Pit them carefully, collecting any juice that escapes in the process.
- Reserve this juice.
- Weigh out 1 pound (16 ounces) of granulated sugar and set aside 4 ounces from this amount for later use.
- Place the pitted cherries and the collected juice into a non-reactive bowl.
- Sprinkle 12 ounces of the sugar over the fruit.
- Allow the mixture to stand at room temperature until most of the sugar has dissolved—this will take about an hour.
- Transffer the cherries and their juices to a saucepan.
- Set over high heat and bring to a rapid boil, stirring often.
- Gradually add about three-quarters of the reserved sugar while the mixture boils.
- Once the cherries begin to look plump and glossy, add 5 fluid ounces of raw red currant juice and the remaining sugar.
- Lower the heat and simmer gently, skimming off any foam, until the syrup thickens and becomes clear, almost jelly-like.
- Remove the pan from the heat and skim the surface again for clairty.
- When the mixture is warm but not hot, layer the cherries into small glass jars or bowls, arranging them as desired and adding a little syrup to each.
- Strain the leftover syrup through a sieve and, once completely cooled, pour enough of it over the cherries to cover, filling the glasses completely.
Estimated Calories
200 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 15 minutes to pit the cherries and prepare the ingredients. Letting the cherries macerate with sugar takes about 1 hour. Cooking and simmering the mixture takes around 30 minutes until the syrup thickens. Each serving has about 200 calories. This recipe makes about 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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