Recipe Manuscript

So Make A Coller Of Beefe

Name: So Make A Coller Of Beefe
Prep time: PTPT40M
Cook time: PTPT5H
Yield: 8
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1.5–2 kg beef flank (thin end); 2 litres cold water (for soaking); 30 g fine white salt; 15 g saltpetre (or additional salt as substitute); 1 tsp black peppercorns, cracked; 1/2 tsp ground mace; 6–8 whole cloves; 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (about 25 g); 1/2 tsp dried winter savory (or dried thyme as substitute); 3–4 bay leaves; 1 small onion (approx. 80 g), finely diced; For brine (optional): 30 g salt dissolved in 500 ml water; Plain flour and water (to make sealing paste); Butcher’s twine or strong kitchen string

1738

From the treasured pages of Cookery book of Ann Goodenough

Written by Ann Goodenough

Culinary Enlightenment (1700 - 1800)European Advanced Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1738

Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

So Make A Coller Of Beefe

"take a piece of thin flankt Beef and lay it in Pumpd water or Such water as will boyle meat twenty fowre hours and shift it in that time thrice or fowre times rubbing it hard and pressing out with your hand the last water you shifted it from then dry it in a course cloth and then take to you discretion two parts of white Salt and one part of Salt perter and Salt it therewith rubing it well in and Soe let it ly in a try three days and turne it once in the time then wash it and hang it up adrying from the brine and water and let it hang an houre and then with a cloth dry it in all places very well then Season it with Cloves Mace peper finc parsly and a very litl winter Sawory and a fow Bay leaves and one litl oinion and then rowle it up very hard and lace it as hard as you can with course tapes and bake it in an earthen pott with about two quarts of water and Strong Brine if you have it cover the top over with course past and bake it with browne bread fine hours take it out and when it is half lay it adrayning and when quit cold take of the tape and send it to the table."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in the brisk, abbreviated style typical of 18th-century manuscripts. There is little precision by modern standards: quantities and times are described by custom and experience (e.g., 'to your discretion', 'when quite cold'), and spellings reflect period phonetics—'fowre' for 'four', 'boyle' for 'boil', 'cloves mace peper finc parsly' for 'cloves, mace, pepper, fine parsley', etc. Instructions flow without headings or clear step demarcation, mirroring how cooks would pass recipes orally or expect kitchen staff to interpret from experience. The technical lexicon—'coller', 'salt perter', 'tapes', 'course past'—reflects both the preservation process and domestic techniques of the time.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cookery book of Ann Goodenough - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookery book of Ann Goodenough (1738)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Ann Goodenough

Era

1738

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful journey into the kitchens of early 18th-century England, this collection captures the flair and flavors of its time with recipes crafted by the inventive Ann Goodenough. Expect a charming medley of hearty roasts, comforting pies, and time-honored confections, perfect for those wishing to dine as they did in Georgian days.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe for 'Coller of Beefe' comes from an English manuscript compiled by Ann Goodenough between 1700 and 1775, a time when preserving and seasoning meats was both a domestic art and necessity. Collaring meat was a popular method in 17th- and 18th-century England for preparing beef, pork, and sometimes fish, often as a celebratory or festive dish served cold and sliced. The process of chilling, salting, seasoning, rolling, tightly binding ('collaring'), and then slow baking in a sealed earthen pot worked both to preserve the meat and to infuse it with the aromatic spices that were a sign of refinement and status. This dish would have graced the English gentry's table, showcasing both the skills of the household cook and the reach of Britain’s spice trade.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In its heyday, this recipe would have required a large ceramic or earthenware pot to hold and bake the meat, as well as a hearth oven fired for bread. Strong linen or hemp tapes (for tying/collaring) would bind the rolled beef, while heavy cloths would be used for drying. The meat would be hung from a hooked beam or rack, and the brining and seasoning would take place in wooden or ceramic tubs. For the sealing paste, cooks used a 'coarse paste' of flour and water.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

40 mins

Cook Time

5 hrs

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

3½–4½ lb beef flank (thin end)
2 quarts cold water (for soaking)
2 tbsp fine white salt
2½ tsp saltpetre (or additional salt as substitute)
1 tsp black peppercorns, cracked
1/2 tsp ground mace
6–8 whole cloves
1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped (about 1 oz)
1/2 tsp dried winter savory (or dried thyme as substitute)
3–4 bay leaves
1 small onion (approx. 3 oz), finely diced
For brine (optional): 2 tbsp salt dissolved in 2 cups water
Plain flour and water (to make sealing paste)
Butcher’s twine or strong kitchen string

Instructions

To make a collared beef, start with a piece of beef flank, about 3½–4½ lb, ideally from the thinnest part.
Soak the beef fully submerged in cold water for 24 hours, changing the water 3 to 4 times throughout.
Each time, scrub and press the meat to remove as much blood as possible.
Afterwards, pat the beef thoroughly dry with a clean towel.
Mix together 2 tbsp fine white salt with 2½ tsp saltpetre (or use 3 tbsp kosher salt if saltpetre is unavailable).
Rub this salt mixture well into the beef, cover, and let it sit in a dish (ideally wooden or ceramic) in the fridge for three days, turning it halfway through.
Wash off the salt mixture, then hang or rest the meat raised on a rack for about 1 hour to drain, patting dry with a towel.
Lay out the beef and season with 1 tsp ground black pepper, 6–8 cloves, 1/2 tsp ground mace, a large handful of finely chopped parsley, 1/2 tsp dried winter savory (or thyme if unavailable), 3–4 bay leaves, and a finely minced small onion.
Roll up the meat tightly, lengthways, and secure it as firmly as possible with butcher’s twine or strong kitchen twine at several points along its length.
Place the rolled beef in an ovenproof earthenware or heavy casserole, cover with about 2 quarts of water and, if desired, a cup of brine (approx.
2 tbsp salt dissolved in 2 cups water).
Seal the top with a sheet of dough (mix plain flour and water to a thick paste for a rough crust).
Bake at 320°F for 5 hours, as you would a dense rye or wholemeal loaf.
Remove from the oven and set the beef to drain on a rack.
When completely cold, remove the string, slice, and serve.

Estimated Calories

280 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing this dish takes time because you need to soak, salt, and season the beef before cooking it slowly in the oven. Soaking and curing the beef takes most of the total time, while hands-on preparation is shorter. The meat needs 5 hours to cook in the oven. Each serving is about 280 calories, based on using lean beef flank and the listed ingredients. This recipe makes around 8 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.