Oyster Loaves
From the treasured pages of Various Cookeries
Unknown Author
Oyster Loaves
"Take litle french Loaves cut off the tops and take out all the Crumbs then take a pound & an half of Butter melt it in a frying pan till all the froth is gone then put in the Loaves and put of your melted butterr into them till they are Crisp, then take them out & set them before the fire, then take 3 pints of Oysters wash them in White wine - then stew them in their own Liquor with some strong Gravy and a little mace or Nutmegg - and if you please a bit of Lemon peel, when they are Enough stewed put in a piece of Butter and a little juice of Lemon, then fill the loaves and put on the tops being fryd with the rest. when you cannot have Oysters Cockles will do."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in a straightforward narrative style, typical of early modern English cookery manuscripts. Measurements are approximate, using periods' standard pints and pounds, which can vary from the modern metric system. Spelling and punctuation are erratic—'loaves' sometimes appears as 'Loaves', butter is measured by 'pound & an half', and 'Oysters' are 'wash[ed] in White wine'. For the modern reader, quantities are clarified, and ambiguous cooking times (like 'when they are Enough stewed') are interpreted according to contemporary oyster cooking standards.
Title
Various Cookeries (1690)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1690
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century kitchens, this book brims with recipes, methods, and culinary wisdom passed down through generations, capturing the essence of historical gastronomy.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from late 17th-century England, a time when oysters were a common and affordable ingredient, even for the middling classes. Oyster loaves were popular as savory treats at elaborate feasts or as refined street food at public events. The dish would have been seen as comfortingly rich, a display of both culinary skill and prosperity. The recipe comes from a handwritten manuscript dating to the late 1600s, revealing a world where butter flowed freely, and culinary indulgence was a marker of both hospitality and social standing.
The original cook would use a hearth with a frying pan (likely of iron or copper), tongs for turning the bread, and a sturdy knife for hollowing out the rolls. Bread would be bought from the baker or baked at home. The oyster stew would be made in a metal pot over the fire. A serving trencher or platter was used to present the finished oyster loaves by the fire, keeping them warm until eaten.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 6 small French bread rolls (about 4–4.5 inches)
- 1 1/2 pounds unsalted butter
- 3 pints (about 6 cups) fresh oysters, shucked (or cockles as alternative)
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 1 cup beef or veal stock (strong gravy)
- 1/4 teaspoon ground mace (or nutmeg)
- A small strip of lemon peel (about 2 inches)
- 2 ounces unsalted butter
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
Instructions
- Begin with 6 small French rolls (about 4–4.5 inches each).
- Slice off the tops and carefully hollow out the insides, keeping the crust intact and setting tops aside.
- In a large frying pan, melt 1 1/2 pounds of unsalted butter over medium heat.
- Let it simmer until the froth subsides, then immerse the hollowed rolls in the melted butter, spooning some into the insides as well.
- Fry until the rolls are crisp and golden.
- Remove and keep warm, standing them upright.
- Drain and rinse 3 pints of fresh oysters in about 1/2 cup of dry white wine.
- Place oysters in a saucepan with 1 cup of strong beef or veal stock, a good grating of nutmeg (or a small pinch of mace), and a small strip of lemon peel.
- Simmer gently until the oysters are barely cooked (about 3-4 minutes).
- Add 2 ounces butter and juice of half a lemon, stir to combine.
- Fill the crispy bread shells with the stewed oysters, replace the fried tops, and serve hot.
- In the absence of oysters, cockles or similar shellfish will substitute gracefully.
Estimated Calories
900 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing the rolls and oysters takes about 20 minutes, and cooking them takes another 15 minutes. Each serving is one stuffed bread roll. Each serving is high in calories due to the butter and bread.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
Join the Discussion
Rate This Recipe
Den Bockfisch In Einer Fleisch Suppen Zu Kochen
This recipe hails from a German manuscript cookbook compiled in 1696, a time whe...
Die Grieß Nudlen Zumachen
This recipe comes from a rather mysterious manuscript cookbook, penned anonymous...
Ein Boudain
This recipe comes from an anonymous German-language manuscript cookbook from 169...
Ein Gesaltzen Citroni
This recipe, dating from 1696, comes from an extensive anonymous German cookbook...
Browse our complete collection of time-honored recipes