A Lobster Pie
From the treasured pages of Various Cookeries
Unknown Author
A Lobster Pie
"When the Lobsters are boiled, take the fish out of the Claws & tail, slice it pretty thin & season it - with pepper, salt, mace, & Nutmegg, then mince some of it small with some Oysters & mix 'em with some sweet herbs, grated bread, & the same seasoning of the sliced, work it into balls with Raw yolks of Eggs, & put em into the pye, with the other fish, and a reasonable quantity of Butter. An hour will bake it, for the Candle take - the soft part of the bodies some anchovies & melted - Butter stirr it over the fire till it is melted, but do not let it boil, then put to it the juice of a Lemon and a little whitwine, & when the pye is a little cool pour it in It will take a pretty large quantity of the Candle. and Oysters in the balls I think are needless."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe follows the typical format of late 17th-century manuscript cookery: short, flowing sentences, minimal measurement, and much assumed knowledge. Spellings are variable ('butt' for 'butter', 'pye' for 'pie', 'candle' for a poured sauce), and instructions are often elliptical, aimed at a knowledgeable cook. Ingredient proportions and timings are implied or described as 'a reasonable quantity'. The wording invites experienced improvisation—a contrast to modern, precise recipes.
Title
Various Cookeries (1690)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1690
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century kitchens, this book brims with recipes, methods, and culinary wisdom passed down through generations, capturing the essence of historical gastronomy.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from late 17th-century England, a time when pies were lavish centerpieces at the table and seafood was considered both elegant and nourishing. Lobster was seen as an extravagant treat, especially when paired with costly spices like mace and nutmeg, and even more so when mixed with oysters and anchovies. This was an era when complex, highly seasoned dishes showed off the status and sophistication of the table. The recipe was written as part of a collection, perhaps a cherished family manuscript or a household recipe book. The 'candle'—in this context—refers to a rich, buttery sauce poured into the pie after baking, a technique characteristic of high-status English cookery of the period.
In the 1600s, this pie would have been prepared with hand tools: a large iron or brass pot for boiling lobsters, a sharp knife and mortar for mincing and grinding, wooden spoons, and a coarse sieve. The pie itself would have been assembled in a deep earthenware or metal pie dish and baked within the intense, wood-fired heat of a bread oven. Pastry would be rolled out with a simple wooden rolling pin, and the sauce (candle) mixed over the gentle heat of the hearth.
Prep Time
45 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
4
Ingredients
- 2 lobsters (about 14–18 oz each)
- 1/2 tsp ground white pepper
- 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
- 1/4 tsp ground mace
- 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
- 3 oz shucked oysters (optional, may be omitted)
- 2 tbsp mixed fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, etc.), finely chopped
- 1 oz white breadcrumbs (fresh)
- 2 egg yolks (large, free-range if possible)
- 2 oz unsalted butter (for inside pie)
- Pastry for lining and covering the pie dish (shortcrust recommended)
- Soft part of the lobster bodies (tomalley, optional; or substitute with extra butter)
- 3 anchovy fillets (about 0.7 oz), finely chopped
- 2 oz unsalted butter (for candle/sauce)
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 2 fl oz dry white wine
Instructions
- Begin by boiling 2 whole lobsters (about 14–18 oz each) until the shells turn red, then remove the meat from the tails and claws.
- Slice the lobster meat thinly.
- Season the slices with 1/2 tsp ground white pepper, 1/2 tsp fine sea salt, 1/4 tsp ground mace, and 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg.
- Set aside a portion of the lobster meat and finely mince it, blending it with 3 oz shucked oysters (optional—see original note), 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh mixed herbs (such as parsley and thyme), and 1 oz fresh white breadcrumbs.
- Season this mixture with more pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg, just as above.
- Bind the mixture with 2 raw egg yolks, shape into small balls.
- Butter a pie dish generously and arrange the lobster slices and seasoned balls, scattering about 2 oz unsalted butter in pieces throughout.
- Cover with pastry and bake at 350°F (320°F fan) for 1 hour until golden.
- For the candle (sauce): Take the soft, creamy parts of the lobster bodies, 3 anchovy fillets (finely chopped), and 2 oz melted butter.
- Warm gently over low heat, stirring, but do not let it boil.
- Stir in the juice of 1/2 a lemon and 2 fl oz dry white wine.
- Cool the pie slightly and pour the candle (sauce) in before serving.
- Use a generous amount to saturate the pie well.
Estimated Calories
650 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this lobster pie involves cooking the lobsters, making a filling, assembling the pie, and baking it. Cooking the lobsters and prepping the filling takes some time, and the pie bakes for an hour. This recipe serves 4, with about 650 calories in each serving.
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