Recipe Manuscript

To Make Craw Fish Pottage R

1690

From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Jane Dawson

Written by Jane Dawson

To Make Craw Fish Pottage R
Original Recipe • 1690
Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Make Craw Fish Pottage R

"Take Carpes and Tench or other sort of fish and Cut them to Small peeces & after put them into a Stew pan with parsley oignons Time Carrots & Sallery or what other roots please. with butterr & peper & Salt, & close them all well together, & after put in Sum water acording to the quantety of fish that you have: after Take your Craw fish and boyle them in Water & salt. and Take out of Taills of Some of them and only Take of the shells and make a forst meat of Carpe & butterr & sweet hearts & yolkes of Eggs and fill up the Bodys of yor; Crawfish after frie them and put them in to a pot or pan with oysters Mushroames shrimps Morells and the Milt of Carpes & a glafs of white wine & Stew them all in the broth and when you Sarve yor; Pottage, Squas upon it a Juse of a lemon, & your Taills & Clawes of Craw fish and Streane throw a cloth with Some of the broth to collor your Pottage;"

Note on the Original Text

17th-century recipes like this one were written presuming considerable prior cooking knowledge, with little detail on quantities or precise timings. Spelling was variable: 'boyle' for boil, 'forst meat' for farce or forcemeat (a stuffing), 'milt' for milt (fish roe), and 'sarve' for serve. Punctuation was sparse, and directions flowed in long sentences, requiring the reader to parse and interpret steps through experience. The recipe mixes instruction with ingredient listing—a common style—requiring the cook to decide amounts and methods according to what was ‘pleasing’ or at hand. The word 'roots' refers to root vegetables generally, while 'sweet hearts' means chicken or calf hearts, a common addition for richness in period forcemeats.

Recipe's Origin
Cookbook of Jane Dawson - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookbook of Jane Dawson (1690)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Jane Dawson

Era

1690

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century English kitchens, Jane Dawson's recipe collection is a flavorful tapestry of sweet delicacies and savory dishes, revealing the tastes and ingenuity of bygone home cooks.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This vibrant recipe comes from the late 17th century, preserved in Jane Dawson's personal manuscript 'V.b.14.' The late 1600s were a period of culinary experiment in England, with new foods arriving from Europe and increased interest in indulgent, lavish dishes for the upper crust of society. This 'crawfish pottage' is a clear example of a luxury soup for special occasions—lavishly packed with freshwater fish, shellfish, mushrooms, and layered with opulent flavors. Crawfish pottage would have graced grand tables and was often served as an impressive starter or centerpiece at feasts. The presence of wine, oysters, and crayfish shows the rising interest in continental styles of cookery—a mix of native English ingredients and international flair.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

Back in the 17th century, this dish would have been prepared over an open hearth using cast iron stew pans or copper pots suspended over the fire. Chopping was done with large, sharp knives and cleavers on sturdy wooden boards. The butter and mixtures were beaten or pounded in mortars, while smaller items were fried in heavy pans over the embers. For straining the broth, a muslin cloth or fine linen napkin was used, often held over a large bowl or directly into the serving tureen. Cooking was slow and attentive, with no modern timers—judging doneness by eye and taste was essential. The luxurious nature of the ingredients and the careful stuffing and frying of the crayfish bodies would have required both time and a skilled household cook.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

40 mins

Cook Time

1 hr

Servings

6

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 lb freshwater fish (carp, tench, or substitute with trout, perch, or tilapia)
  • 1 lb whole crayfish (cooked, or substitute with langoustines as needed)
  • 3 1/2 oz oysters (fresh or drained jarred)
  • 3 1/2 oz button mushrooms
  • 3 1/2 oz shrimp (peeled)
  • 2/3 oz dried morels (rehydrated, or substitute with fresh mushrooms)
  • Milts (soft roe) of carp (optional)
  • 1/3 cup dry white wine
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 3/4 oz butter
  • 1 3/4 oz cooked chicken or calves' hearts (or chicken liver/cooked fish as substitute)
  • 1 oz fresh parsley (chopped)
  • 1 oz onions (finely chopped)
  • A few sprigs of thyme
  • 3 1/2 oz carrots (sliced)
  • 3 1/2 oz celery or other root vegetables (sliced)
  • Salt and black pepper, to taste
  • Juice of 1 lemon

Instructions

  1. Begin by taking about 1 1/2 pounds of freshwater fish such as carp and tench (you can substitute with trout, perch, or tilapia if those are more easily available).
  2. Cut the fish into small pieces and place them in a stew pot with a big handful (about 1 ounce) each of chopped fresh parsley and onions, a few sprigs of thyme, and around 3 1/2 ounces each of sliced carrots and celery (or any other available root vegetable that appeals to you).
  3. Add 1 3/4 ounces of butter and season generously with salt and pepper.
  4. Cover the pot and let the mix gently heat together so the flavors mingle.
  5. Add about 4 to 6 cups of water, enough to cover the fish and vegetables, and bring gently to a simmer.
  6. Meanwhile, catch or purchase about 1 pound of raw whole crayfish.
  7. Boil them in salted water until bright red (about 5 minutes), then cool slightly.
  8. Pick the tails from some of the crayfish, removing the shells and reserving for later.
  9. Use the remaining meat and shells to make a quick stock or just set aside.
  10. For the stuffed crayfish bodies, blend some of the cooked fish (about 3 1/2 ounces) with 1 ounce softened butter, 1 3/4 ounces finely chopped cooked chicken hearts (or substitute with chicken liver or even extra cooked fish), and 2 egg yolks to bind.
  11. Re-stuff this mixture into the empty crayfish shells.
  12. Shallow-fry these stuffed crayfish for a golden finish.
  13. Add to the pot with the fish: 3 1/2 ounces oysters (fresh or jarred, drained), 3 1/2 ounces button mushrooms (quartered if large), 3 1/2 ounces peeled shrimp, a handful of dried morels (about 2/3 ounce, soaked), and the milt (soft roe) of the carp if you have it (otherwise omit).
  14. Add a generous splash (about 1/3 cup) of dry white wine.
  15. Simmer gently in the broth with the shellfish and vegetables.
  16. When you are ready to serve, squeeze over the juice of a fresh lemon.
  17. Decorate the soup with the crayfish tails and claws, and strain a little of the broth through a fine cloth into the pot to give a clear color and finish.
  18. Serve hot as a grand pottage.

Estimated Calories

430 per serving

Cooking Estimates

This recipe takes extra time because there are several steps: prepping fish and vegetables, boiling and shelling crayfish, making stuffed crayfish, and simmering the soup. Cooking and preparation may take a while, but the results are worth it. The calories are estimated based on the main ingredients and typical servings. This recipe makes enough for about 6 people.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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