Recipe Manuscript

Bulars Cheese

Name: Bulars Cheese
Prep time: PTPT10M
Cook time: PTPT45M
Yield: 8
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 450 grams bullaces (or damsons as substitute); 340 grams caster sugar (use 225–275 grams if using damsons); Brown bread (optional, for placing in the oven alongside the fruit)

1720

From the treasured pages of Cookbook of 1720

Unknown Author

Culinary Enlightenment (1700 - 1800)European Beginner Dessert Snack

Original Recipe • 1720

Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Bulars Cheese

"To every pound of bulars three qrs of a pound of sugar set the bulars in the oven with brown bread, with a small quantity of the sugar, when they come out of the oven rub ye pulp through a culender, put the sugar to it, boil it to the thickness you like, damsons are done the same way, only less sugar is sufficient"

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in concise, practical language typical of early 18th-century English household manuscripts. Measurements are by weight—pounds and quarters (qrs) of a pound, which means three-quarters pound sugar to one pound fruit. Spelling reflects contemporary usage ('bulars' for bullaces, 'culender' for colander, 'ye' for 'the'). Instructions assume the reader’s familiarity with kitchen procedures, omitting temperature or timer details. Notably, the recipe omits details about storage or serving, as such knowledge would have been second nature to its intended audience.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Cookbook of 1720 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cookbook of 1720 (1720)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Unknown

Era

1720

Publisher

Unknown

Background

Step back to the early 18th century and discover a delightful treasury of recipes and culinary secrets, where traditional flavors meet timeless technique—a feast for curious cooks and history lovers alike.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe for 'Bulars Cheese' comes from England around 1720, a period when preserving fruit in the form of 'cheese' or 'paste' was popular in both aristocratic and rural kitchens. Fruit cheeses, thickened and sweetened enough to hold their shape, were enjoyed as sweetmeats or served alongside cheese boards. Recipes like this were a way to preserve fruit before refrigeration, transforming seasonal abundance into treats that could be enjoyed throughout the year. The term 'cheese' here refers not to dairy, but to the fruit’s transformation into a firm block, somewhat like quince paste or Spanish membrillo.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Back in 1720, cooks would have used a wood-fired oven to gently bake the fruit, often placing the fruit in earthenware or pewter dishes. Once softened, they would use a colander (spelled 'culender') or strainer to separate skins and stones from pulp, then transfer the pulp to a large heavy-bottomed pan or preserving kettle for boiling. Wooden spoons for stirring and linen towels for straining might also be called into service. A hearth or open fire would have provided the stove-top heat for the final stage. The finished cheese would be poured into molds or shallow dishes to set.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

10 mins

Cook Time

45 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 pound bullaces (or damsons as substitute)
12 ounces caster sugar (use 8–10 ounces if using damsons)
Brown bread (optional, for placing in the oven alongside the fruit)

Instructions

To recreate Bulars Cheese today, begin with 1 pound of 'bulars.' While the term 'bulars' is ambiguous, historical research suggests it refers to bullaces, a small wild plum closely related to damsons.
Preheat your oven to 320°F.
Place the washed bullaces (or damsons as a substitute) in a baking dish, scatter with about a quarter of the sugar (3 ounces of caster sugar), and bake until the fruit softens and begins to burst, about 20–30 minutes.
Once cooked, remove the fruit from the oven and press the pulp through a sieve or food mill to remove skins and stones.
Transfer the strained pulp to a saucepan, add the remaining sugar (totaling 12 ounces for 1 pound of fruit), and boil gently, stirring often, until the mixture thickens to your liking—think thick apple butter or fruit cheese consistency.
Damsons can be prepared the same way, but only use about 8–10 ounces of sugar per 1 pound of fruit, as damsons are naturally sweeter.

Estimated Calories

110 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 10 minutes to prepare the fruit and ingredients, and 45 minutes for cooking and thickening. The recipe makes 8 small servings, each with about 110 calories, mostly from the fruit and sugar.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.