Suiker-Deeg
"Sugar Dough"
From the treasured pages of Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek
Unknown Author
Suiker-Deeg
"Gy zult een vierendeel Suiker neemen, tot Poeder gezift, daar na zult gy se in een Mortier doen, doe'er het Wit van een Ey by, en een Lepel vol Citroen-zap, en roer het alles met malkander zagtjens om, tot dat de Suiker begint wat gebonden te werden; en by aldien dat se het bezwaarlyk doet, soo zult gy'er wat Oranje-bloessem-water by doen; en wanneer het zal gebonden wezen, soo zult gy het stampen om het tot Deeg te brengen, ten einde dat het vast werd, dan zult gy Onderkorsten van Pasteien maken, na dat gy van doen hebt. Ook soo maakt men Deeg met half Suiker, daar by doende half Suiker en half Meel, dat men onder een moet kneden, gelyk als hier boven is gezegt."
English Translation
"You will take a quarter part of sugar, sifted to a powder, then put it in a mortar, add the white of an egg and a spoonful of lemon juice, and stir it all gently together until the sugar begins to bind; and if it is difficult, you should add some orange blossom water to it; and when it becomes bound, you should pound it to make it into dough, so that it becomes firm, then you can make pastry crusts as needed. Also, this dough can be made with half sugar, adding half sugar and half flour, which should be kneaded together as described above."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe uses evocative, flowing language typical of early 18th-century Dutch cuisine instructions—emphasizing process over exact measurement. Terms like 'een vierendeel Suiker' (a quarter-part sugar) depended on the cook’s intuition and habitual vessels, reflecting both flexibility and experience. Spelling is archaic but clear for its era—'gy zult' for 'je zult' (you shall), and 'se' for 'ze' (she or it), as well as words like 'zagtjens' (gently) all convey a soft, conversational tone. Such vernacular touches make the method delightfully personal and hands-on.
Title
Het Hollands, of Neederlands kook-boek (1725)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1725
Publisher
J. du Vivie
Background
A delectable journey into 18th-century Dutch cuisine, this cookbook serves up traditional recipes, culinary wisdom, and a flavorful glimpse of the Netherlands’ rich gastronomic heritage.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe hails from an early 18th-century Dutch cookbook, a testament to the luxurious sweet pastries enjoyed in upper-middle-class homes of the Netherlands. The instruction reflects the high value placed on refined sugar and aromatic waters in Dutch patisserie, a result of the nation's world-spanning trade links. Such doughs were used for lining tartlets, as ‘onderkorsten’, and likely for sweet confections far from today’s mass-produced bakery fare. Published in 1725 in Leyden, this recipe captures both the flavors and the genteel aspirations of its age, where even the humblest crust might be perfumed with the essence of distant orange blossoms and bright, fresh lemons.
Historically, a mortar and pestle were key for pounding and mixing sugar dough, as this created both the correct texture and incorporated the aromatic ingredients evenly. An iron or earthenware bowl would have been common for combining, with a sturdy wooden spoon for stirring. Precise scales were rare; measurements relied on proportions and common kitchen vessels like spoons or eggshells. The dough might be rolled with simple hand pressure, or shaped directly into tart shells.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
0 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 1/4 cups fine white sugar (powdered or caster sugar)
- 1 egg white
- 1 tablespoon (0.5 fl oz) freshly squeezed lemon juice
- Orange blossom water (as needed, about 1 teaspoon)
- Alternative for second version: 2/3 cup fine white sugar + 2/3 cup plain wheat flour
Instructions
- To make this historical Dutch 'Suiker-Deeg' (sugar dough) using modern ingredients, begin by sifting 1 1/4 cups of fine white sugar into a bowl.
- Add the white of one egg and about one tablespoon (0.5 fl oz) of freshly squeezed lemon juice.
- Mix everything gently together until the sugar begins to come together and form a paste.
- If the mixture remains too stiff, add a small amount of orange blossom water (start with 1 teaspoon, and add more as needed) to loosen it, mixing until the dough is well combined and holds together.
- When the dough is well-formed and firm, use a pestle or your hands to knead it until smooth—you want a pliable, solid dough.
- From this, you can make 'undercrusts' for pastry, or simply shape it as desired.
- Alternatively, make a half-and-half dough by using equal parts (about 2/3 cup each) of sugar and wheat flour, following the same method but kneading both together with the egg white and lemon juice.
Estimated Calories
120 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 10 minutes to prepare the dough by mixing and kneading the ingredients. There is no baking or cooking required unless you use it in another recipe. Each serving is estimated to contain about 120 calories, and this recipe makes 8 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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