To Preserve Cherries
From the treasured pages of Receipts for cookery and pastry work
Written by Mrs. Johnston
To Preserve Cherries
"Take the Biggest Morala Cherries you can get, stone them, cast on suggar as you stone them; To every pound of cherries take a pound and a quarter of suggar and wet your suggar with half a pint to the pound, either of the Joice of Rizels or Cherries set it on the fire till it come to a syrup; Then clere it and put in the cherries, and let them simmer till they come to there Collour; for they will cast there colour, when they are first put in, when they are tender & clear take out ye cherries and boil up the syrup till it be thick, put them into a gally pot and pour on the syrop & set them by, and let them stand eight or ten Days, if the syrup turn thin Boil it up again and put it on the Cherries."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in a conversational, instructional style common to the time, without precise timings or temperatures. Quantities are referenced by weight (pounds) and liquid measure (pints), using approximately 1 pound of cherries to 1 1/4 pounds of sugar, moistened by about half a pint of juice. The archaic spelling ('suggar', 'Joice', 'gally pot') reflects early 18th-century English before spelling was standardized. Directions rely on visual cues—'when they are tender and clear,' or 'till it come to a syrup'—expecting a cook’s experienced eye.
Title
Receipts for cookery and pastry work (1700)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mrs. Johnston
Era
1700
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful compilation of 18th-century recipes gathered by Mrs. Johnston herself, promising a charming journey through the flavors and culinary traditions of the early 1700s.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from the early 18th century, a time when home preservation was both a necessity and an art form, especially before refrigeration. It was compiled by Mrs. Johnston around 1700, in a handwritten cookbook typical of the English gentry. Such recipes aimed to capture the fleeting summer glut, preserving cherries in jewel-like syrup for use through the winter. The 'Morala' cherry is not widely available today, but the technique works beautifully with any good cherry. The careful boiling, clarity of syrup, and repeated reboiling to correct syrup texture reflect the practical, hands-on approach of early modern preserving kitchens.
In Mrs. Johnston's day, cherries would have been pitted with a small knife or pin, the fruit mixed with sugar in large basins, and the syrup boiled in a brass or copper preserving pan over an open fire or stove. A slotted spoon ('skimmer') would have been used to lift out the fruit, and gally pots—earthenware jars—used for storage, with parchment or bladder for sealing. Today, we use stainless steel pans, glass jars, and reliable rubber-sealed lids.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
45 mins
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2 lbs fresh cherries (preferably large, dark, and ripe; substitute with any good quality cherries)
- 2.75 lbs granulated sugar
- 8.5 fl oz (a little more than 1 US cup) redcurrant juice or cherry juice (substitute: cranberry juice for tartness if needed)
Instructions
- Begin with fresh, large sweet or sour cherries (Morala is an old variety, but any plump modern cherry will do).
- Pit them, layering the fruit and sprinkling sugar as you go.
- For every 2.2 lbs of cherries, measure out 2.75 lbs of granulated sugar.
- Moisten the sugar with about 8.5 fl oz (a little more than one US cup) of either fresh currant (redcurrant) or cherry juice—currant is a nice tart contrast if available.
- Put the sugar and juice in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat gently, stirring until it turns into a syrup.
- Skim off any scum that rises, then gently add the cherries.
- Let them simmer on very low heat until they regain their vibrant color—they will pale at first but color will return as they cook through.
- Once the cherries are soft and look translucent and jewel-like, lift them out with a slotted spoon.
- Boil the remaining syrup until thick (test by letting a drop fall onto a cold plate—it should hold shape).
- Pack the cherries into sterilized jars (historically 'gally pots') and pour the hot syrup over top.
- Seal and let rest for about a week to let the flavors develop.
- If the syrup separates or turns thin, simply reboil it to concentrate before re-adding to the fruit.
Estimated Calories
260 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this cherry preserve takes some time, mainly to pit the cherries and allow them to simmer gently. You’ll also need time to boil the syrup until thick and to fill the jars. Most of the time is hands-on, except for the cooking and syrup boiling steps.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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