To Dress A Leg Of Mutton

This recipe comes from the early 18th century, compiled by Mrs. Johnston around 1700, a time when English and Scottish gentry delighted in complex presentations of meat and rich, spicy flavors. Mutton was considered a versatile and robust meat, and techniques like stuffing, force-meating, and serving with opulent sauces showcased both the cook's skill and the host's status. During this era, imported spices such as Jamaican pepper (allspice) and anchovies were favored for their strong flavors and association with cosmopolitan kitchens. The inclusion of oysters and capers points to the reach of trade and the layering of taste so typical of early modern British cuisine.

Historically, this dish would be prepared with large iron pots or cauldrons for boiling the mutton and making broth. A spit or open hearth oven would be used for roasting, while frying pans crafted from heavy metal (often copper or wrought iron) would serve for cooking the collops and force-meat balls. Knives—well-sharpened, as butchery work was done by hand—were essential for boning and mincing the meat. A simple sieve or cloth could be used to strain broth, and wooden spoons or paddles for stirring sauces.