To Make Apricoks Pluims Or Goosberrys Or Surrafe
From the treasured pages of Receipt book of Catherine Bacon
Written by Catherine Bacon
To Make Apricoks Pluims Or Goosberrys Or Surrafe
"They must be put in a flaggon And you must pott of watter And kept boyling very fast if it be for white you must pourd itt out oft and that cleare And you may make either cleere Sakes or Jolly of it take them out of the flaggons And straine them then to that pulp Add to it double refin'd shuger And Boyle them in An earthen Dish with a spoon for on or 2 hours then have your papers And lay them on sheets of glass they must not have two hot A fire you may make it of quinch they must be coyled soft the shuger must be Searfed a pound of fruite to A pound of shuger if you ad the white of An Egg to it when you begin to boile it it will scume the botton"
Note on the Original Text
Early modern English recipes were often written as memory aids for knowledgeable cooks, not as precise, step-by-step instructions. Quantities were implied or proportional—here, 'a pound of fruit to a pound of sugar' is the key ratio, but water and times are vague. Spelling and grammar were fluid, with words like 'boyling' (boiling), 'pott' (pot), and 'quinch' (quince) reflecting phonetic and regional usage. Instructions such as 'searfed' (sifted) and 'scume the botton' (skim the bottom) illustrate the hands-on, observational style expected of the reader.
Title
Receipt book of Catherine Bacon (1730)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Catherine Bacon
Era
1730
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful foray into the kitchens of 17th and early 18th century England, Catherine Bacon’s culinary manuscript offers an elegant medley of recipes and cookery wisdom for the discerning palate of her age.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from the late 17th to early 18th century English manuscript of Catherine Bacon (circa 1680–1739). During this period, sugar preservation—especially the making of fruit pastes, jellies, and 'cakes'—was a fashionable and practical way to store seasonal fruits for winter. Cookbooks of the time were handwritten and intended for domestic kitchens in affluent households, where refined sugar was a luxury and sweetmeats a sign of hospitality and status. The recipe reflects early modern English interests in delicate confectionery and the influence of French culinary trends, as well as the household alchemy of transforming fresh fruit into shelf-stable, jewel-like treats.
Original preparation would have involved glass or ceramic flagons (large jugs), large iron or copper boiling pots set over an open fire, sieves or muslin cloths for straining pulp, earthenware dishes for cooking the pulp with sugar, wooden spoons for stirring, and glass sheets or marble slabs for drying the finished jelly cakes. Parchment or oiled papers were used as liners to prevent sticking. Heat control was managed by moving pots closer to or farther from the fire, and keeping water boiling quickly required constant attending and refilling.
Prep Time
1 hr
Cook Time
2 hrs
Servings
16
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 lbs apricots, plums, gooseberries, or quinces (fresh, pitted/trimmed/cleaned as needed)
- 2 lbs double-refined (caster or superfine) sugar
- Water, as needed to cover fruit and for boiling
- 1 egg white (optional)
- Extra sugar for dusting (optional)
Instructions
- To make a clear fruit jelly or 'jolly', select fresh apricots, plums, gooseberries, or quinces—about 2 lbs of fruit.
- Place the fruit in a large glass or ceramic jug (flagon).
- Fill a large pot with water and bring to a rapid boil.
- Immerse the jug with fruit into the boiling water so it is surrounded but not mixed in, and keep boiling vigorrously.
- If you wish for a pale or clear jelly, change the boiling water frequently for fresh, clear water.
- After 1 to 2 hours, remove the jug and strain the softened fruit to yield a pulp.
- Measure the strained pulp and combine with an equal weight of double-refined sugar (about 2 lbs per 2 lbs fruit).
- Transfer this mixture to an earthenware or heavy-bottomed saucepan and simmer over low to medium heat, stirring regulary, for 1 to 2 hours.
- Optionally, add the beaten white of 1 egg at the beginning to help clarify and remove scum from the mixture, skimming as needed.
- Once thickened and clear, pour onto baking parchment lined over sheets of glass (or modern baking trays) to set and dry slowly, avoiding high heat.
- The result will be firm, glossy fruit 'cakes' similar to pâte de fruit.
Estimated Calories
90 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and cooking this fruit jelly takes about 3 to 4 hours in total. The recipe makes around 16 small servings, with each serving estimated at about 90 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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