To Make Cakes
From the treasured pages of Receipt book by Beulah Hutson
Written by Beulah Hutson
To Make Cakes
"Dry a pownd of fine flowor, then mix with it a pownd of fine Sugor, Salbolh and Sift it, through a haire Siue, then rub in a pownd of butterr laid in roſewater allnight, then whip up the whites of eight eggs to Snowe. 2 Spoonfull of roſewater, then mix it altogether, and mix in a pownd of Currants, then bako thom in tinn panns halfe full, they will be baked in les then halfe an houre then bake thom out of the panns, as fast as they Come out of the Ouon."
Note on the Original Text
Early modern English recipes were written in a narrative, conversational style with scant punctuation and variable spelling (‘flowor’ for flour, ‘bako’ for bake, ‘thom’ for them). Quantities typically used the pound as a unit, as kitchen scales were becoming more standardized, though exact measurements and oven temperatures were left to the cook’s intuition. The spelling is phonetic and reflects pronunciation and orthographic conventions of the late 17th century. Unfamiliar words like ‘Salbolh’ are likely misreadings or archaic terms; in this case, it might be ‘sifted’ or another action related to processing the flour for lightness. Egg whites whipped to ‘Snowe’ indicate the pre-meringue technique to lighten the crumb, while the separation of eggs, heavy use of rosewater, and currants show both social status and the merging of old and new culinary habits.
Title
Receipt book by Beulah Hutson (1680)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Beulah Hutson
Era
1680
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful journey into 17th-century kitchens, this manuscript stirs together rustic recipes and culinary secrets, inviting readers to savor the ingenious flavors of Beulah Hutson's time.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This cake recipe hails from late 17th-century England, around 1680, and is found in a household manuscript attributed to Beulah Hutson. Cakes in this period were often more akin to dense buns or enriched breads than the feathery confections we know today. These cakes represent early British baking traditions, blending imported sugar and currants with native flour and eggs. The result is a celebratory bake, likely reserved for special occasions or gatherings. Rosewater, a staple flavoring of its day, reflects the palate of the English gentry, hinting at the influence of luxury ingredients and the migration of Arab and Mediterranean culinary fashions into northern Europe. Recipes like this mark a fascinating transition from medieval spiced breads to modern cakes.
In the 1680s, this cake would be made with simple kitchen equipment: a large wooden bowl for mixing; a hair or linen sieve for sifting flour and sugar; hands for rubbing butter into flour; a whisk (bundles of twigs or metal) for beating egg whites to a snow; and sturdy tin or copper baking pans. Baking was done in a wood-fired oven, often managed by an experienced house cook who could judge temperature by hand. The cakes would have been unmoulded from their tins with skill and speed to avoid sticking.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
25 mins
Servings
18
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 pound (about 4 cups) fine white flour
- 1 pound (about 2¼ cups) granulated sugar
- 1 pound (2 cups) unsalted butter (soaked overnight in 2 tablespoons rosewater, or mixed in directly)
- 8 large egg whites
- 4 tablespoons rosewater (divided)
- 1 pound (about 2¼ cups) dried currants
- Extra butter for greasing pans
Instructions
- Begin by drying 1 pound (about 4 cups) of fine white flour in a low oven for about 10-15 minutes; this ensures lightness.
- In a large bowl, combine the flour and 1 pound (about 2¼ cups) of finely granulated sugar.
- Sift together thoroughly.
- Take 1 pound (2 cups) of unsalted butter and soak it overnight in 2 tablespoons of rosewater to infuse it with delicate floral notes.
- The next day, rub the butter into the flour-sugar mixture with your fingertips until it resembles fine breadcrumbs.
- Whisk the whites of 8 large eggs until stiff peaks form—think airy meringue.
- Gently fold the egg whites and 2 more tablespoons of rosewater into the dry mixture, followed by 1 pound (about 2¼ cups) of currants.
- Spoon the batter into well-buttered muffin tins or small cake pans, filling each half-way.
- Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F (180°C) for about 20-25 minutes, or until just golden and cooked through.
- Turn out promptly onto racks as soon as they’re done.
Estimated Calories
370 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and soaking the butter takes up to 12 hours, but most of the work is hands-off. Mixing and assembling the ingredients should take about 30 minutes, and baking the cakes takes 20-25 minutes. The recipe makes 18 servings, and each one has about 370 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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