Oatmeal Puddings, Otherwise Of Fish Or Flesh Blood
From the treasured pages of The whole body of cookery dissected
Unknown Author

Oatmeal Puddings, Otherwise Of Fish Or Flesh Blood
"TAke a quart of whole Oatmeal, steep it in warm Milk over night, and then drain the groats from it, boyl them in a quart or three pints of good Cream; then the Oatmeal being boyled and cold, have Time, Penny-royal, Parslee, Spinnage, Savory, Endive, Marjorum, Sorrel, Succory, and Strawberry-leaves, of each a little quantity, chop them fine, and put them to the Oatmeal, with some Fennel-seeds, Pepper, Cloves, Mace, and Salt, boyl it in a Napkin, or bake it in a dish, Pye, or Guts; sometimes of the former Pudding you may leave out some of the herbs, and add these, Penny-royal, Savory, Leeks, a good big Onion, Sage, Ginger, Nutmeg, Pepper, Salt, either for fish or flesh dayes, with Butter or Beef-fuet, boyled, or baked in Dish, Napkin, or Pye."
Note on the Original Text
Recipes of the period were written as brief, continuous instructions, assuming a certain level of knowledge and intuition from the reader. Quantities were approximate, often given as 'a little quantity', and much was left to taste and experience. Menu-planning was dictated by the religious calendar, hence references to 'fish or flesh days'. Spelling in the original (e.g., 'boyl' for boil, 'groats' for oats, 'boyled' for boiled, 'boyl it in a Napkin') is typical of Early Modern English, which had not yet been standardized. The recipe's method is flexible, giving the cook a choice of boiling, baking, or stuffing into 'guts' according to preference or means, emphasizing the adaptability and resourcefulness of historical kitchens.

Title
The whole body of cookery dissected (1673)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1673
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A sumptuous exploration of 17th-century English cookery, 'The whole body of cookery dissected' serves up an array of recipes and kitchen wisdom, offering a flavorful journey through the dining tables of Restoration England.
Kindly made available by
Texas Woman's University
This recipe comes from 'The whole body of cookery dissected' published in 1673, a period when English cookery drew heavily on rustic, practical ingredients and was influenced by both medieval traditions and early modern changes in kitchen techniques. Puddings like this one—based on grains, herbs, and whatever rich additions (butter, suet, or even animal blood)—were staples of both grand and humble tables. It was customary to distinguish between 'fish days' (when meat was not permitted, often for religious reasons) and 'flesh days' (when meat was allowed); the recipe flexibly adapts to both by including or omitting certain ingredients like animal fat and by offering substitutions in herbs and aromatics. It showcases the ingenuity of historical cooks, using local, foraged herbs and garden greens as flavor and nutrient boosters in an era of seasonal scarcity.

The 17th-century cook would have used a large earthenware or metal pot for soaking and boiling the oats, wooden spoons for stirring, and a sharp knife and wooden chopping board for shredding herbs and aromatics. The mixture was shaped for cooking using clean linen napkins or muslin, tied securely with kitchen twine, or packed into casings made from animal intestines (for a sausage-like pudding). For baking, the mixture would go into glazed earthenware or sturdy metal dishes, placed in a bread oven or over an open hearth with carefully managed hot embers. Basic implements like strainers and ladles would help handle the hot grains and cream.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 cups whole rolled oats (or pinhead/steel-cut oats if available)
- 2 cups whole milk
- 3 1/4 cups heavy cream
- 1/3 ounce fresh thyme
- 1/3 ounce pennyroyal (substitute with 1/6 ounce fresh mint if unavailable)
- 1/3 ounce flat-leaf parsley
- 1/3 ounce spinach
- 1/3 ounce savory (substitute with thyme/oregano if unavailable)
- 1/3 ounce endive (or frisée/curly endive)
- 1/3 ounce marjoram
- 1/3 ounce sorrel (or extra spinach with a splash of lemon juice if unavailable)
- 1/3 ounce chicory (or radicchio/dandelion leaves as substitute)
- 1/3 ounce fresh strawberry leaves (optional; omit if unavailable)
- 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
- 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon ground mace
- 1 teaspoon salt
- Optional for variation: 1/3 ounce fresh pennyroyal, 1/3 ounce savory, 1 small leek (finely chopped), 1 medium onion (diced), a few sage leaves (chopped), 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger, 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg, additional black pepper and salt
- 2.5 ounces unsalted butter, melted (or beef suet, finely chopped or melted)
- Muslin cloth or sausage casings (for boiling; or use a baking dish/pie tin for baking)
Instructions
- Begin by soaking 4 cups of whole rolled oats in 2 cups of warm whole milk overnight.
- The next day, drain off the milk and transfer the oats to a saucepan with 3 1/4 cups of heavy cream.
- Simmer gently over low heat until the oats are tender and have absorbed the cream; set aside to cool.
- Finely chop approximately 1/3 ounce each of fresh thyme, pennyroyal (or substitute with a smaller amount of mint if pennyroyal is unavailable), parsley, spinach, savory (or substitute with additional thyme/oregano), endive (or curly endive/frisée), marjoram, sorrel (or substitute with extra spinach and lemon juice), chicory (or substitute with radicchio or dandelion greens), and fresh strawberry leaves (optional – omit if unavailable).
- Add the chopped herbs to the cooled oat mixture.
- Season with 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves, 1/2 teaspoon ground mace, and 1 teaspoon salt.
- Mix well.
- For variation, you may replace some herbs with 1/3 ounce each of pennyroyal, savory, 1 small leek finely chopped, 1 medium onion finely diced, a few sage leaves chopped, 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger, 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg, black pepper, and salt to taste.
- For richer puddings, stir in 2.5 ounces melted unsalted butter or beef suet.
- Transfer the mixture into a well-buttered muslin cloth (or into sausage casings, or a baking dish/pie tin) if boiling, securing it tightly.
- Simmer in gently boiling water for 1 hour.
- Alternatively, bake in a greased ovenproof dish or pie at 340°F for 40-50 minutes until firm.
- Serve warm, either sliced as pudding or scooped directly from the dish.
Estimated Calories
400 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and soaking the oats takes some time, but it's simple. Cooking is mostly passive, either by boiling or baking. Each serving has about 400 calories because of the cream, milk, oats, and butter. This recipe makes around 8 generous servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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