Clemole Toluqueño
"Toluca-Style Clemole"
From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 2
Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Clemole Toluqueño
"Una gallina, un trozo de lomo de tocino, longanizas, chorizos y aves ó morcilla. Se frien en manteca hasta que se doren catorce ó diez y seis chiles pasillas desvenados; se tuesta un poco de ajonjolí, almendras con cáscara, pepitas de calabaza limpias y cacahuates; molido esto se frié en manteca y ya bien frito se echa el chile tambien molido y frito todo junto, se echa la gallina y demás carnes; caldo, sal, y se deja sazonar."
English Translation
"A hen, a piece of pork loin, sausages, chorizos and birds or blood sausage. Fourteen or sixteen deveined pasilla chiles are fried in lard until browned; a little sesame seed, whole almonds, cleaned pumpkin seeds and peanuts are lightly toasted; this is ground and fried in lard, and once well fried, the chile (also ground) is added and everything is fried together. Add the hen and other meats, broth, salt, and let it simmer to season."
Note on the Original Text
Recipes of this era were written as fluid narratives, with little to no enumeration of step-by-step directions or precise measurements. The cooks were assumed to possess instinct and practical experience, adjusting quantities and seasonings to taste as they went. The language mixes regionalisms (like 'clemole' for a type of mole, and 'pasillas' for the chiles) and period spellings (e.g. 'gallina' instead of 'pollo' for chicken, emphasizing a mature bird for richer flavor). There's minimal punctuation and sentences often run together, making recipes less formulaic than modern instructions and more like shared oral traditions.

Title
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 2 (1890)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Era
1890
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A charming pocket-sized volume from the 'Cocina en el Bolsillo' series, brimming with delightful recipes for a variety of foods and offering a flavorful glimpse into historical culinary traditions.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe is drawn from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 2', published in 1890 in Mexico City by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo. The booklet is part of a popular numbered series intended for everyday home cooks looking for inspiration and new preparations. The recipes capture the vibrant, multicultural culinary world of late nineteenth-century Mexico, blending Spanish, indigenous, and Creole influences. In this era, printed cookbooks were often small, portable, and affordable, meant to fit literally in one’s pocket. They provide an invaluable window into both the domestic economy and the aspirations of a newly urbanizing middle class. Clemole Tolqueño, featured here, is typical of celebratory stews from central Mexico, using a rich combination of meats, chiles, seeds, and nuts.

Traditional home cooks in 1890s Mexico would have used heavy clay cazuelas for stewing and earthenware comales or iron griddles for toasting seeds and chiles. Grinding would be done using a metate (stone grinding slab) or a molcajete (mortar and pestle). Lard rendered at home was the primary frying fat. A sharp kitchen knife and wooden spatulas would have rounded out the essential toolkit. Cooking was performed on a wood- or charcoal-fired hearth or simple stove, with careful attention to the heat so as not to burn the delicate chiles or seeds. Serving would be straight from the cazuela to the family table, with fresh tortillas always nearby.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
45 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole chicken (about 3.3 lbs), cut into pieces
- 9 oz pork belly
- 2 fresh longanizas (about 5 oz; substitute: fresh spicy sausages)
- 2 chorizos (about 5 oz)
- Optional: 3.5 oz morcilla (blood sausage) or additional poultry
- 14–16 dried pasilla chiles (about 1.5 oz), stemmed and seeded
- 2–3 tbsp lard (or vegetable oil, but lard is traditional)
- 20 whole almonds (unpeeled)
- 2 tbsp sesame seeds
- 3 tbsp peeled pumpkin seeds (pipian)
- 3 tbsp unsalted peanuts
- 3 and 1/4 cups chicken or meat stock
- Salt, to taste
Instructions
- Begin by taking one whole chicken (about 3.3 lbs), a piece of pork belly (about 9 oz), two fresh Mexican longanizas (or substitute with 2 spicy fresh sausages, about 5 oz), two chorizos (5 oz), and, if desired, some morcilla (Spanish blood sausage) or additional poultry.
- Cut meats into large pieces.
- In a wide, deep pan, heat 2-3 tablespoons of lard until hot, then fry 14 to 16 dried pasilla chiles (about 1.5 oz), destemmed, deseeded, and deveined, until just fragrant and darkened—do not burn.
- In a dry skillet, lightly toast 2 tablespoons of sesame seeds, 20 almonds (unpeeled), 3 tablespoons of pumpkin seeds (pipian, unsalted), and 3 tablespoons of unsalted peanuts until golden and aromatic.
- Grind or blend the toasted nuts and seeds together.
- Fry this paste in lard in a pan until well browned, then add the previously fried and groun chiles, frying evrything together to develop flavor.
- Return all cooked meats to the pan.
- Cover with enough chicken or meat stock (about 3 and 1/4 cups) and salt to taste.
- Let everything cook together until the flavors meld and the sauce thickens, about 30 minutes.
- Serve hot, garnished with toasted sesame seeds if desired.
Estimated Calories
550 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 30 minutes to prepare the ingredients and workspace for this recipe, including cutting meat, seeding chiles, and toasting nuts and seeds. Cooking takes around 45 minutes, which covers frying the chiles and nuts, blending, browning the paste, and simmering everything together. Each serving contains about 550 calories, and the recipe makes 6 hearty servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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