Krebse Zu Kochen
"To Cook Crabs"
From the treasured pages of Koch Puech
Unknown Author
Krebse Zu Kochen
"186. Krebse zu kochen. Man nimt abgehäutte krebse 5 loß und reibt solche an einem reib Eisen, und gewürz darunter gestoßen, Citronen schalen von der Ceurdischen Art, Pfeffer Muskatblüthe und Cardamom. wan sie aber fein geriben seind, nimt man dan ein Pfund Butter dazu, zerlaßt ihn, aber daß er nur lauwarm wird, und mengt das krebsmehl darunter, dan nimt man so viel Eyer dazu, damit es ein teig wird, reibt aber das gelbe und weiße von den Eyern allein, jedes besonders, und wan es gut gerieben ist, nimt man Semel, in der kalten brühe, oder in wein, die dan kalt daran kömt, und macht einen kleinen kloß daraus, kocht ihn Probe, und wan er gut ist, macht man die andern krebse auch so, und legt die klösse in einen koch, so sie auskochen wil, legt sie dan in einen tiefen Napf und sezt sie auf ein warmes Platz, sezt aber zuvor einen deckel darauf, und giebt ein wenig brühe daran, so bleibt es warm, und die klösse weich."
English Translation
"186. To cook crabs. Take 5 pounds of peeled crabs and grate them on a grater, along with spices that have been ground, citron peel of the Cedrat variety, pepper, mace, and cardamom. When they are finely grated, take a pound of butter, melt it so that it just becomes lukewarm, and mix the crab meal into it. Then take as many eggs as needed to make it into a dough; rub the yolks and whites separately and thoroughly. When it is well mixed, take white bread soaked in cold broth or in wine, which is then added cold, and form a small dumpling from it. Cook it as a test, and when it is good, make the rest of the crab dumplings in the same way. Place the dumplings in a pot to cook them until done, then put them in a deep bowl and set it in a warm place, but first cover it with a lid and add a little broth to keep it warm and the dumplings soft."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe, like many from the period, assumes familiarity with kitchen processes and leaves much to the cook’s judgement—proportions are vague, the order of mixing is implied, and the final appearance or size of the dumplings left to experience. Spelling reflects older German conventions and regionalism (for example, ‘abgehäutte’ for ‘peeled’ and ‘Kloß’ for ‘dumpling’); quantities use pre-metric weights (a ‘Loß’ is approximately 1.8 kg). Richly spiced, the mixture of lemon, pepper, cardamom, and mace was typical of elite baroque cooking.
Title
Koch Puech (1696)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1696
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A sumptuous journey for the adventurous palate, this splendid 17th-century cookbook boasts over 1,350 rare and prized recipes—ranging from hearty pies and luscious cakes to savory aspics, exquisite soups, and creative fish dishes. A true treasure trove for any culinary enthusiast seeking both variety and sophistication.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe hails from a 1696 anonymous German manuscript, ‘Koch Puech,’ a time when crayfish (Krebse) were a prized delicacy served at aristocratic tables or on special occasions. The book collects over 1350 rare and costly dishes, reflecting the opulence and culinary curiosity of early modern European courts. Using a blend of aromatic spices such as mace and cardamom, mixed with luxurious butter and delicate crayfish meat, the dumplings (Klöße) marry French refinement with German heartiness. Butter-rich seafood dumplings like these would have been seen as a triumph of skill and status in any grand household.
The recipe would have been prepared with a large iron grater for processing the crayfish, mortars and pestles for grinding spices, sturdy mixing bowls of pottery or wood, and a heavy brass or copper pot for poaching the dumplings. Butter would have been warmed over a hearth fire in a small saucepan, while beaten eggs were whipped by hand with a fork or wooden whisk. The final dish was kept warm in a deep pottery bowl covered with a lid, standing near the hearth.
Prep Time
40 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 13 lbs peeled crayfish tails (or substitute with shrimp if unavailable)
- Grated zest of 1-2 organic lemons
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon ground mace (or substitute with nutmeg)
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
- 1 lb (16 oz) unsalted butter
- 8 large eggs, separated
- 6 oz white bread (brioche or challah), crusts removed
- 1 2/3 cups cold broth (chicken, veal, or light fish) or dry white wine
- Salt to taste
Instructions
- Begin by taking about 13 pounds of peeled crayfish (today it is easiest to use raw crayfish tails, shells removed).
- Grate the meat finely using a grater or food processor.
- Season with ground spices: a small amount of grated lemon zest (ideally from organic lemons to substitute for 'Ceurdische Art'), freshly ground black pepper, a pinch of mace (substitute for Muskatblüte), and a dash of ground cardamom.
- Melt about 1 pound (16 ounces) of unsalted butter until just lukewarm.
- Mix in the grated crayfish meat and spices to form a crumbly mixture.
- Separate the eggs: beat the yolks and whites individually until smooth, then combine them with the crayfish mixture to create a sticky dough.
- Soak about 6 ounces of white bread (like brioche or challah) in cold broth or white wine until saturated, then squeeze out excess liquid and mix the soaked bread into the dough.
- Shape small dumplings (Kloß) and poach them gently in simmering salted water or broth until firm and cooked through.
- When done, transfer them to a warm deep dish, cover, and add a small ladleful of hot broth to keep them moist.
- Serve warm.
Estimated Calories
470 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and shaping the crayfish mixture takes about 40 minutes. Cooking the dumplings in simmering broth takes around 20 minutes. Each serving contains about 470 calories, and this recipe makes 12 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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