Mancha Manteles

This recipe comes from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 9,' published in 1890 by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo, a notable Mexican publisher and chronicler of popular culture. The book, a small and practical guide, offered household cooks and housewives a treasury of affordable recipes, reflecting the eclectic tastes of late-19th-century urban Mexico. Mancha Manteles, literally 'tablecloth stainer,' is a festive dish—both sweet and savory—beloved in Mexican celebratory kitchens and especially hailing from the states of Puebla and Oaxaca. The recipe as recorded gives a glimpse into the resourcefulness and creativity of Mexican cooks, uniting European and Indigenous ingredients in a lavish, deep-red sauce. It was likely made for special occasions or Sunday feasts, signaling hospitality and abundance through its generous use of fruits, meats, and spices.

In the 1890s, preparation would have required a sturdy clay or cast-iron pot (olla or cazuela) set over a wood or charcoal stove. Grinding the toasted chilies and sesame was performed using a heavy stone metate (grinding stone) and mano, or occasionally a traditional molcajete (mortar and pestle). Boiling was done in wide-mouthed pots, and frying in copious lard occurred in deep skillet pans. For puréeing cooked vegetables, the beets would be mashed by hand or passed through a food mill, as food processors were of course unavailable. Serving presented an opportunity for artistry, with the final garnishes carefully arranged by hand.