Mancha-Manteles De Carne De Puerco
"Mancha-Manteles With Pork"
From the treasured pages of La Cosina en el Bolsillo No. 1
Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Mancha-Manteles De Carne De Puerco
"Se quitan las pepitas a los gitomates crudos, escogiéndose bien maduros, se mue-len con chile ancho remojado, canela, cla-vo y pimienta, se fríe todo en manteca. Se añaden una poca de agua tibia, carne de puerco, chorizos cocidos, aceitunas, tor-nachiles rajados, vinagre, sal, un terrón de azúcar, camote, platano largo, cacahuates, calabaza de castilla y perones."
English Translation
"Remove the seeds from the raw tomatoes, selecting ones that are very ripe. Grind them with soaked ancho chili, cinnamon, cloves, and pepper, then fry everything in lard. Add a little warm water, pork meat, cooked chorizos, olives, sliced pickled chili peppers, vinegar, salt, a lump of sugar, sweet potato, plantain, peanuts, pumpkin, and apples."
Note on the Original Text
Early recipes like this are succinct and assume deep practical knowledge from the reader. Quantities were rarely provided because cooks measured with their eyes and hands, guided by experience and taste. The spelling—'gitomate' for jitomate (tomato), 'clavo' for clavo de olor (clove), and 'calabaza de castilla'—mixes regionalisms and old orthography. Instructions focus on the sequence, not time or temperatures, underscoring the improvisational nature of historical home cooking. The inclusion of ingredients like perón (a native apple), plantain, and tornachiles showcases both regional produce and festive abundance.
Title
La Cosina en el Bolsillo No. 1 (1913)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Era
1913
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful entry from the famed 'Cocina en el bolsillo' series, this charming 1913 volume artfully tucks a world of recipes into your pocket—ready to inspire delicious adventures at every turn!
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe hails from early 20th-century Mexico, specifically from the 1913 booklet 'La Cosina en el Bolsillo No. 1' by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo, a famed publisher known for democratizing culture via accessible publications. The period saw growing urbanization and the beginnings of Mexican national cuisine shaped by both indigenous and colonial influences. 'Manchamanteles', which translates to 'tablecloth-stainer', is a celebratory stew associated with festive occasions. Its name hints at the vivid sauces and riot of color that would inevitably stain the linen, reflecting the exuberance and abundance of Mexican communal meals.
Cooks of the time made this recipe in a simple home kitchen, using a stone metate or molcajete to grind spices and chilies. The sauce would be cooked in a clay cazuela (pot) or a heavy iron pan over a coal or wood fire. Metal knives and wooden stirring spoons were essential, as well as clay or wooden bowls for mixing. Chopping, blending, and frying all took place by hand—a labor of both love and patience.
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 30 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 5 medium ripe tomatoes (about 1 lb 5 oz)
- 3 dried ancho chiles (about 1 oz), soaked
- 1 stick cinnamon (0.2 oz)
- 2 cloves
- 1/2 teaspoon (0.04 oz) black peppercorns
- 3 tablespoons (1.4 oz) lard or neutral oil
- 7 fl oz warm water
- 1 lb 2 oz pork shoulder, cut into chunks
- 5.3 oz cooked chorizo, sliced
- 1.8 oz green olives, pitted
- 2 pickled jalapeños or fresh tornachiles, deseeded and torn into strips
- 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) vinegar
- 2 teaspoons (0.4 oz) salt
- 1 teaspoon (0.2 oz) sugar
- 7 oz sweet potato, peeled and cubed
- 1 ripe plantain (about 5.3 oz), sliced
- 1.8 oz roasted peanuts
- 5.3 oz calabaza de castilla (winter squash), peeled and cubed
- 2 small tart apples (perones or Granny Smith), peeled and cut into chunks
Instructions
- Begin by selecting 5 medium (about 1 lb 5 oz) ripe tomatoes.
- Remove the seeds and place the flesh in a blender.
- Add to the blender 3 dried ancho chiles (seeds and stems removed, about 1 oz), previously soaked in warm water to soften.
- Add 1 stick of cinnamon (about 0.2 oz), 2 cloves, and 1/2 teaspoon (about 0.04 oz) of black peppercorns.
- Blend until smooth.
- Heat 3 tablespoons (1.4 oz) of lard or neutral oil in a large casserole or Dutch oven over medium heat.
- Pour in the blended mixture, fry until fragrant (about 8 minutes), then add 7 fl oz of warm water and stir well.
- Add 1 lb 2 oz pork shoulder, cut into chunks.
- Simmer covered until the pork is tender (about 1 hour), then add 5.3 oz cooked chorizo, 1.8 oz green olives (pitted), 2 torn and deseeded pickled jalapeños (or fresh tornachile, if available), 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) vinegar, 2 teaspoons (0.4 oz) salt, and 1 teaspoon (0.2 oz) sugar.
- Add 7 oz sweet potato, peeled and cubed; 1 ripe plantain (about 5.3 oz), sliced; 1.8 oz roasted peanuts; 5.3 oz winter squash (calabaza de castilla), peeled and cubed; and 2 small tart apples (perones or Granny Smith), peeled and cut into chunks.
- Simmer until all vegetables are just tender.
- Serve warm as a festive stew.
Estimated Calories
560 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 25 minutes to prepare all the ingredients, and about 1 hour 30 minutes to cook the stew until everything is tender. Each serving gives you roughly 560 calories. This recipe makes about 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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