Queso De Puerco
"Head Cheese (Queso De Puerco)"
From the treasured pages of Libro de Cosina de la Sra Concepcion Lerma de Chacon
Written by Concepción Lerma de Chacón
Queso De Puerco
"La cabeza del puerco, papada, lengua y patas, se limpia muy bien despues de haber estado en agua el tiempo suficiente para que se desangre; se pone a hervir en vasija proporcionada hasta que está todo muy bien cocido. Se deshuesa y corta la carne en pedacitos del tamaño de un dadito; se pone a sofreir en un sarten a fuego lento en su misma grasa, meneándolo seguido para que no se pegue; si la cabeza es grande, se le echan 45 gramos de sal molida, 35 gramos de pimienta, 30 de canela, 8 de clavo y una nuez moscada, todo bien molido. La canela se le pone al quitarlo del fuego. Luego se echa en un cesto (esto es un costal delgado) y se va apretando para que suelte la grasa, dandole la forma de bola ó queso de Flandes. Se amarra bien el cesto y se le pone encima un peso suficiente, como un metate o prensa, para que todo forme una masa y forme un cuerpo luego que enfrie. Se rebana ya otro dia y come frio. Dura varios dias y es muy bueno."
English Translation
"The pig's head, jowl, tongue, and feet are cleaned very well after having been in water long enough to remove the blood; they are put to boil in a suitable pot until everything is very well cooked. The meat is then deboned and cut into pieces the size of a small die; it is fried in a pan over low heat in its own fat, stirring constantly so it doesn't stick; if the head is large, add 45 grams of ground salt, 35 grams of pepper, 30 grams of cinnamon, 8 grams of cloves, and one nutmeg, all well ground. The cinnamon is added after taking it off the heat. Then it is placed in a basket (this is a thin sack) and pressed so that it releases the fat, giving it the shape of a ball or a Flanders cheese. Tie the sack tightly and place a sufficient weight on top, such as a grinding stone or press, so that it all forms a mass and holds together once cooled. It is sliced and eaten cold the next day. It keeps for several days and is very good."
Note on the Original Text
Expect a practical, economical tone: instruction is sparse, relying on the cook’s intuition for tasks like cleaning and boiling. Exact measurements only appear for spices and salt, not for the primary ingredient, the pig’s head, as this would have depended on butcher’s availability and household size. Period spelling reflects the orthography of late 19th-century Mexico—note, for example, the use of 'vasija' instead of the now more common 'olla,' and terms like 'costal' for thin sack or bag. Directions for heat control, emulsification, and compression rely on simple sensory cues and the everyday objects at hand—hallmarks of manuscript kitchen lore before industrial standardization.
Title
Libro de Cosina de la Sra Concepcion Lerma de Chacon (1899)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Concepción Lerma de Chacón
Era
1899
Publisher
Unknown
Background
This delightful late 19th-century Mexican manuscript whisks readers into a world of decadent desserts like Dulce de leche y almendras and Cocada de natillas y almendras, savory delights such as Pollos en salsa de almendras and Lomo de cerdo enrollado, and other sumptuous creations, from Budin de papa to Sopa de gusanillos a la mexicana. It even includes intriguing pulque recipes—a true feast for the adventurous palate.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
Queso de Puerco, sometimes known as 'head cheese' in English, is a traditional European-inspired dish adapted to Mexican kitchens in the late 19th century. This recipe hails from the "Libro de Cosina de la Sra Concepción Lerma de Chacón" (1899), a personal manuscript reflecting the culinary intersections of European techniques and local Mexican ingredients and tastes. At the turn of the 20th century in Mexico, resourcefulness was an essential kitchen virtue; cooks ensured that every part of an animal found its way to the table. Dishes made from pig's head, feet, and offal were popular both for flavor and thrift, spiced generously with the aromatic spices made newly accessible by global trade. This is a festive, rustic dish cherished for its robust flavor and impressive longevity.
In 1899, cooks would have used large earthenware or copper pots (vasijas) for boiling meats over a wood-fired hearth or charcoal. A sharp knife and wooden board were needed for dicing the meats. The rendering and sautéing of the meats were done in heavy iron or copper pans. A fine mesh basket or a thin woven cloth (like muslin or a very thin cotton sack) served as the pressing mold, which was then weighted with a metate (grinding stone) or other heavy household implements to expel fat and bind the loaf together.
Prep Time
4 hrs
Cook Time
4 hrs
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 pig’s head (about 4 1/2–6 1/2 lb), including jowl, tongue, and feet if possible
- Water for soaking and boiling
- 3 tablespoons fine salt
- 2 1/2 tablespoons ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
- 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cloves
- 1 whole nutmeg (about 2 teaspoons), grated
- Optional: fine cheesecloth or a clean thin tea towel for pressing
- Substitute if pig’s head is unavailable: use pork shoulder with pork skin and feet
Instructions
- To prepare Queso de Puerco in a modern kitchen, thoroughly clean 1 pig’s head (including jowls, tongue, and feet if possible).
- Soak the pieces in cold water for several hours, changing the water to remove as much blood as possible.
- Rinse well.
- In a large stockpot, add the pig’s head and associated parts, cover with water, and bring to a simmer.
- Cook gently until all the meat is very tender and easy to seperate from the bone (about 3–4 hours).
- Remove the meats, discard bones, and dice the meat and skin into small cubes about 1/2–5/8 inch in size.
- In a sauté pan, reheat the diced meat in its rendered fat over low heat, stirring often to prevent sticking.
- Add 3 tablespoons salt, 2 1/2 tablespoons ground black pepper, 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon, 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cloves, and 1 whole grated nutmeg (about 2 teaspoons).
- Add cinnamon after removing the pan from heat, to preserve its aroma.
- Mix thoroughly.
- Line a colander or sieve with a very fine cheesecloth or use a clean, thin kitchen towel.
- Transfer the hot mixture into it, forming a rough ball or dome.
- Press out excess fat, then wrap tightly.
- Place a heavy flat weight (like a clean cast-iron pan or other safe weight) on top to compress the meat.
- Refrigerate overnight until firm.
- Unwrap and slice thinly to serve cold—this "cheese" will keep for about 5 days in the refridgerator.
Estimated Calories
320 per serving
Cooking Estimates
We soak and clean the pig's head for a few hours, then cook it for about 3 to 4 hours. Most of the preparation time is soaking and prepping the meat, and the dish needs to chill overnight to set before serving. Each serving has a moderate amount of calories typical for cold cuts, and the recipe makes about 10 servings from one pig's head.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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