Recipe Manuscript

Pipian De Almendra

"Almond Pipian"

1830

From the treasured pages of Del Huso de Consepcion Gutierres y Franco

Written by Concepción Gutierres y Franco

Pipian De Almendra
Original Recipe • 1830
Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Pipian De Almendra

"se tuestan las Almendras ay se muelen ay gitomate ay chiles colorados crudos todo correspondiente y se frien tambien y sele echa clabo nomucho canela pimienta y se ahogan alli las pollas o otra carne como es guajolote perdises sele echa aseitunas tornachiles alcaparras jamon choriso lo que se quiera deste."

English Translation

"Toast the almonds and grind them. Also use tomatoes and raw red chiles, all appropriate amounts, and fry them as well. Add clove (not too much), cinnamon, and pepper. The hens or other meat such as turkey or partridges are simmered in this sauce. Add olives, pickled chiles, capers, ham, chorizo—whatever you like of these."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe as written is characteristically concise, offering guidance primarily through key actions rather than precise measurements—a hallmark of early 19th-century manuscript recipes. Spelling follows the conventions and colloquialisms of the day ('gitomate' for 'jitomate', 'chiles colorados crudos' for raw dried red chilies), and quantities or cooking times are almost always omitted, relying on the cook's experience. Ingredient listings are blended into instructions, and optional elements (“lo que se quiera deste”) appear based on availability or preference. This open format encouraged adaptability, making the recipe as much a suggestion as a fixed formula.

Recipe's Origin
Del Huso de Consepcion Gutierres y Franco - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Del Huso de Consepcion Gutierres y Franco (1830)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Concepción Gutierres y Franco

Era

1830

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A charming Mexican cooking notebook from 1830, filled with approximately forty handwritten recipes. Lovingly inscribed in black ink and bound in blue cloth, this delectable collection offers a tantalizing glimpse into the flavors and artistry of 19th-century Mexican cuisine.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe hails from an 1830 Mexican manuscript compiled by Concepción Gutierres y Franco, a likely domestic matron, who meticulously gathered over forty recipes in black ink. The 'Pipian de almendra' appears among her culinary notes, stitched into blue cloth and preserved within artisanal endpapers, reflecting the home cooking customs of post-independence Mexico. In that era, Mexican cuisine was experiencing a delightful fusion of Old and New World ingredients. The inclusion of almonds, various meats, and imported spices in this pipián illustrates both Spain’s lingering influence and the rich indigenous traditions of Mexico. The presence of olives, capers, and preserved meats hints at both local adaptation and European trade connections, all rendered in a handwritten domestic context rather than a printed, professional cookbook.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

In an early 19th-century Mexican kitchen, this pipián would be handcrafted using a flat clay comal or an iron skillet to toast the almonds and chiles. Grinding would be accomplished on a heavy metate (grinding stone) or in a stone mortar and pestle (molcajete) to achieve a smooth, integrated paste. Cooking would take place in earthenware cazuelas (shallow cooking pots) set over a wood or charcoal fire. Spoons of wood or horn would stir the bubbling sauce, while metal knives would prepare garnishes like ham and olives. The lack of refrigeration means pickled ingredients (like 'tornachiles') and preserved meats were culinary staples.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

40 mins

Servings

6

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 3.5 oz whole almonds, raw
  • 12 oz tomatoes (about 3 medium)
  • 1 oz dried red chilies (such as guajillo, ancho, or similar)
  • 2 tbsp vegetable oil
  • Pinch of ground cloves
  • 1 small stick cinnamon
  • 0.5 tsp ground black pepper
  • 2.2 lb chicken pieces (or turkey/game birds/partridge as alternative)
  • 1.75 oz pitted green olives
  • 2 tbsp capers
  • 1.75 oz chopped cooked ham
  • 1.75 oz sliced chorizo sausage
  • A few slices of pickled jalapeños or other pickled green chiles (if available, as substitute for tornachiles)
  • Salt, to taste

Instructions

  1. Begin by toasting 3.5 ounces of almonds in a dry skillet until fragrant and lightly browned.
  2. Grind them thoroughly, using either a food processor or a mortar and pestle for an authentic touch.
  3. Roast 3 medium tomatoes (about 12 ounces total) and 3 dried red chiles (such as guajillo or ancho, about 1 ounce) to enhance their flavors; grind or blend these with the almonds until you form a thick paste.
  4. In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of oil, then fry the paste for several minutes until it darkens slightly and becomes aromatic.
  5. Season with a pinch of ground cloves, 1 small cinnamon stick (broken up), and ½ teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper.
  6. Add about 2.2 pounds of chicken pieces or another meat such as turkey or game birds, allowing them to simmer gently in the sauce until tender.
  7. During the final stage, garnish with 1.75 ounces of pitted green olives, a few sliced pickled jalapeños (substitute for 'tornachiles'), 2 tablespoons of capers, 1.75 ounces of chopped ham, and 1.75 ounces of sliced chorizo sausage.
  8. Serve warm with the garnishes; you may choose which or how many to include, according to taste.

Estimated Calories

410 per serving

Cooking Estimates

You will need about 20 minutes to prepare all ingredients, such as toasting almonds, chopping items, and blending the sauce. Cooking the chicken and simmering the sauce will take about 40 minutes. Each serving has around 410 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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