Ante De Leche Y Huevos
"Milk And Egg Custard"
From the treasured pages of Novisimo arte de cocina
Written by Alejandro Valdes
Ante De Leche Y Huevos
"Para cada tasa de leche fresca se le regulan tres yemas de huevos, la azucar y pastillas de olor necesarias; y todo bien batido se pone á cocer: luego que esté espesito se toma mamon rebanado untado en almibar, y sobre este se va poniendo la pasta con pasas, almendras, nueces y ajonjolí tostado, poniéndole el rescoldo y con un comal con lumbre encima."
English Translation
"For each cup of fresh milk, mix in three egg yolks, the necessary amount of sugar, and flavored tablets; beat everything well and cook it. When it thickens, take slices of mamón (sponge cake) coated in syrup, and layer the custard over them with raisins, almonds, walnuts, and toasted sesame seeds. Place hot coals underneath and a griddle with fire on top."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the concise, almost algebraic fashion typical of early 19th-century cookbooks, stating ratios ('for each cup of milk, three yolks') and expecting the cook to adapt quantities as needed. It forgoes precise timings and temperatures, relying on sensory cues like 'bien batido' (well beaten) and 'espesito' (thickened), assuming practical knowledge on the part of the reader. Spelling like 'leche' and 'yemas' remains modern, but terms like 'pastillas de olor' refer to now-rare scented flavoring pastilles or tablets. 'Mamon' refers to a light, airy sponge bread, which is best substituted today with similar sweet breads such as brioche or challah.
Title
Novisimo arte de cocina (1831)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Alejandro Valdes
Era
1831
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful 19th century cookbook offering a medley of recipes curated to be prepared in multiple enticing styles—perfect for the adventurous home chef with refined tastes.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe hails from the early 19th-century Mexican cookbook 'Novisimo arte de cocina', published in 1831 by Alejandro Valdés. It reflects the blending of Spanish colonial culinary traditions (notably, the use of 'mamon' and aromatic spices) with local New World ingredients, in a period when Mexican elite dining was undergoing refinement and transformation. The dish belongs to a class of rich, custard-based desserts often reserved for festivities and special occasions.
Traditional preparation relied on a large ceramic or copper saucepan for cooking the custard over a wood or charcoal fire. Constant stirring was performed with a wooden spoon. The finishing touch was achieved by resting hot coals ('rescoldo') on the lid of the pot or by placing a hot clay griddle ('comal') above the dish, effectively baking or caramelizing the top from above, in the absence of a modern broiler.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
2
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 cup fresh whole milk
- 3 egg yolks
- 2–2 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- A few drops vanilla extract (substitute for 'pastillas de olor')
- 2 slices of brioche or challah bread (substitute for 'mamon')
- 2 3/4 tablespoons simple syrup (1 1/3 tablespoons water + 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, simmered to dissolve)
- 2 1/2 tablespoons raisins
- 2 tablespoons toasted almonds, chopped
- 2 tablespoons walnuts, chopped
- 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Instructions
- For each cup (about 8 fl oz) of fresh whole milk, separate three egg yolks.
- To the milk and yolks, add sugar to taste (start with 2–2 1/2 tablespoons), and a few drops of vanilla extract as a substitute for 'pastillas de olor' (aromatic pastilles).
- Whisk the mixture together thoroughly until smooth and slightly frothy, then pour into a saucepan and cook gently over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until thickened—like a soft custard.
- Once the mixture has thickened, take slices of brioche or challah (as a modern substitute for 'mamon', a sweet Spanish sponge bread), and brush them with a light syrup made from equal parts water and sugar, simmered together until slightly thick.
- Lay the syrup-soaked bread slices in a serving dish, spoon the thickened custard over them, and sprinkle with a mixture of raisins, chopped toasted almonds, chopped walnuts, and toasted sesame seeds.
- To approximate the old method of browning with coals on top, briefly toast the surface under a broiler, watching closely, just until the top is golden and lightly caramelized.
Estimated Calories
360 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 15 minutes to prepare all ingredients, and 15 minutes to cook the custard and assemble the dessert. Each serving provides approximately 360 calories. This recipe yields 2 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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