Panecillos De Foie-Gras
"Foie-Gras Rolls"
From the treasured pages of Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina de Hortensia Volante
Written by Hortensia Volante
Panecillos De Foie-Gras
"Se toma la cantidad que se juzgue necesaria de pasta de brioche, se divide en pequeñas porciones con las que se hacen unos panecillos de un dedo de largo y algo gruesos en su centro. Se doran con huevo batido y se cuecen a un horno regular. También se pueden hacer redondos. Se cortan por la mitad en sentido horizontal, se untan por los lados con una ligerísima capa de mantequilla holandesa y se extiende encima una capa mas gruesa de foie-gras de ternera y mas generalmente de paté de foie-gras de lata. Se unen las dos partes del panecillo."
English Translation
"Foie-Gras Rolls Take as much brioche dough as you consider necessary, divide it into small portions with which you form rolls about a finger long and somewhat thick at the center. Brush them with beaten egg and bake in a moderate oven. They can also be made round. Cut them in half horizontally, spread a very thin layer of Dutch butter on the sides, and then a thicker layer of veal foie-gras, or more commonly, canned foie-gras pâté. Rejoin the two halves of the roll."
Note on the Original Text
Early 20th-century recipes, as seen here, are delightfully brief and assume much prior culinary knowledge—there are no exact measurements or bake times. Instruction is conveyed conversationally; readers are expected to know how dough feels when properly risen, how hot a 'regular oven' is, and the basic methods for dealing with pâtés and butters. The language reflects a gentler, less prescriptive approach that trusts the cook’s experience. Spelling, grammar, and terminology reflect the Spanish of the period, with phrases like 'panecillos' and 'pasta de brioche' used without further elaboration. The mention of 'foie-gras de ternera' shows some flexibility or local adaptation, as true foie gras is duck or goose liver but veal pâté was sometimes used instead.
Title
Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina de Hortensia Volante (1902)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Hortensia Volante
Era
1902
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A charming early 20th-century manuscript brimming with delectable recipes, from croquetas to guiso de caracoles, lending a savory glimpse into the flavors of the era.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
Hortensia Volante’s 1902 'Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina' captures the cosmopolitan flair of turn-of-the-century Mexican home kitchens, where European influence mingled with local traditions. Recipes like these brioche rolls filled with foie gras speak to an era of aspirational dining among the upper and middle classes, when French and Spanish techniques became symbols of refinement and modernity at the table. These 'panecillos' would be served at gatherings or as part of elegant buffets, a testament to gastronomic sophistication and the globalized palate of 1902's urban Mexico.
Home cooks in 1902 used sturdy wooden tables for kneading brioche by hand, sharp kitchen knives for slicing, and earthenware or tin baking trays for the rolls. Ovens were typically wood or coal-fired, requiring skill to maintain a 'regular' (moderate) heat. Glazing was done with a brush or the back of a spoon, and the butter would be hand-churned or clarified on the stove.
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
13 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 18 oz brioche dough (homemade or store-bought)
- 1 egg (for glazing)
- 1.5 oz softened butter (preferably clarified)
- 5.3 oz foie gras (duck/goose liver pâté, or substitute with high-quality canned pâté de foie)
- Pinch of salt (optional, to taste)
Instructions
- To create these charming early-20th-century 'Panecillos de foie-gras,' start by preparing a classic brioche dough, or use a high-quality store-bought version if short on time.
- Divide the dough into small pieces, shaping them into finger-length rolls or small rounds, slightly plump in the center (about 2-2.5 inches long and 0.75-1.25 inches thick).
- Glaze the tops with beaten egg for shine, then bake at 350°F (moderate oven) until golden brown and cooked through, typicallly 12-15 minutes.
- Once cooled, slice each roll in half horizontally.
- Lightly butter the cut sides with a thin layer of softened 'mantequilla holandesa'—which we may interpret as either very fine or clarified butter today—then spread a more generous layer of foie gras (ideally duck or goose, but veal or tinned pâté is perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the recipe).
- Sandwich the halves together and serve as elegant petit fours or canapés.
Estimated Calories
180 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing the dough, shaping the rolls, and assembling takes about 25 minutes. Baking adds another 13 minutes. Each Panecillo is small but rich in flavor and calories due to the brioche, butter, and foie gras.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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