Recipe Manuscript

Barbacoa (Cabeza De Res De Ganado Vacuno En)

Name: Barbacoa (Cabeza De Res De Ganado Vacuno En)
Prep time: PTPT14H
Cook time: PTPT12H
Yield: 16
Cuisine: American
Ingredients: 1 whole beef head (5-6 kg), skinned; 5-6 whole dried chilies (guajillo or pasilla, or similar); 8-10 cloves garlic, whole; 100 g onion, cut in large chunks; 200 g fatty pork (pork belly) or 150 g cured ham; 250 ml good-quality vinegar; 20 g salt; 10 g ginger (fresh) or 5 g dried ginger; 1 tablespoon mixed whole spices (peppercorns, allspice, cloves, optional cinnamon stick); 1 whole lime, cut in chunks; 1 tablespoon ground cumin; Additional garlic for internal seasoning (about 4 cloves); Fresh beef skin or 1 large woven palm mat (approximately 1.5 x 1.5 m), well cleaned and soaked; Strong natural-fiber twine

"Barbacoa (Beef Cattle Head In:)"

1950

From the treasured pages of Mexican Cooking Notebook

Unknown Author

Early Modern Kitchen (1900 - 1930)American Advanced Dinner Lunch

Barbacoa (Cabeza De Res De Ganado Vacuno En)

Original Recipe • 1950

Original Manuscript(circa Early Modern Kitchen, 1900 - 1930)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Barbacoa (Cabeza De Res De Ganado Vacuno En)

"Se descuera la cabeza muy a raiz, se agujera el cuerpo por todas partes, y se mecha con chile peros enteros, dientes de ajo, trozos de cebolla y de carne gorda de puerco, o de jamon, que aya estado por 10 o 12 horas en curtido en un chile-rojo compuesto de buen vinagre, sal, ajengibre y toda clase de especias, agregandole lima en trozos; tambien se mecha la lengua, hasta donde se pueda y por el garguero se le echa el ajo comino, tapandolo para que no se salga: Enseguida se envuelve la cabeza o en un pedazo de cuero fresco, o en un petate limpio de palma remojado, y se amarra con unos hilos de mecates. Con anticipacion se habra formado, un hoyo, como se ha explicado antes, cebandole leña seca y lumbre: Cuando las piedras se hayan enrojecido, se rocian con agua, y se acomoda la cabeza dispuesta como se ha dicho: se ponen en cima parte de las piedras calientes, y el rescoldo que se ha ya sacado del hoyo, que se cubre despues con tierra hasta llenarlo, haciendose sobre ella una buena lumbrada de leña, que devera durar, desde el principio de la noche hasta la siguiente mañana, a la hora que se haya de comer la barbacoa, que se devera servirse caliente."

English Translation

"The head is skinned very closely, holes are made all over the flesh, and it is larded with whole dried peppers, garlic cloves, pieces of onion and fatty pork meat, or ham that has been marinated for 10 or 12 hours in a red chile mixture of good vinegar, salt, ginger, and all kinds of spices, adding pieces of lime; the tongue is also larded as much as possible, and through the gullet garlic and cumin are inserted, sealing it so nothing escapes. Next, the head is wrapped either in a piece of fresh hide, or a clean palm mat that has been soaked, and tied tightly with cords. In advance, a pit should have been prepared as previously explained, with dry wood and fire laid in it. When the stones are glowing red, they are sprinkled with water, and the prepared head is placed inside as described. Some of the hot stones are put on top, as well as the embers that have been removed from the pit, and it is then covered with earth until filled, making a good fire of wood above it, which should last from the beginning of the night until the next morning, at the time the barbacoa is to be eaten, which should be served hot."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in a flowing, narrative style common in early 20th century Mexican cookbooks, focusing more on describing actions than on enumerating precise quantities. Spelling reflects pre-standardized Spanish ('devera' instead of 'deberá', 'machar' for 'mechar'), and ingredients are specified with context-dependent measures ('unos hilos de mecates', 'cuero fresco, o en un petate limpio'). Such recipes presumed a baseline of culinary skill and communal experience, making use of what was available (e.g., 'curtido' as a catch-all marinade), and relying on sensory cues (heat, aroma, tenderness) rather than exact timings or temperatures.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Mexican Cooking Notebook - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Mexican Cooking Notebook (1950)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Unknown

Era

1950

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A charming 20th-century manuscript brimming with Mexican culinary delights, this notebook collects recipes such as Apio a la Española, Ardillas guisadas, Barbo Marino, Barbada (Crema de licor), Biscochos soplados de Almendra, and Carnero Adobado—a flavorful journey through classic and inventive dishes.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This barbacoa recipe hails from a handwritten Mexican manuscript dating from 1915, a time when home cooks preserved traditions predating Mexico's independence. The 'Mexican Cooking Notebook' features both indigenous and European influences, reflecting rural and festive cooking practices of the early 20th century. Barbacoa, referring to pit-roasted meats, was and remains a celebratory dish, traditionally made for large gatherings and special occasions. The detailed method captures a moment when Mexican cuisine was evolving with greater accessibility to spices, European meats like pork and ham, and vinegar-based marinades, while maintaining indigenous cooking techniques.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

The key tool is the earth oven—a pit dug into the ground, lined with river stones and hardwood. Fire was essential: first for heating the stones, then for building a lasting bonfire atop the buried head. Other indispensable tools were a sharp knife for skinning and piercing the head, a sturdy palm mat (petate) or fresh hide for wrapping, and strong twine for binding. Supporting tools included large vessels for marinating, wooden or metal tongs for handling hot stones, and shovels or similar implements for uncovering the pit.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

14 hrs

Cook Time

12 hrs

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 whole beef head (11-13 lb), skinned
5-6 whole dried chilies (guajillo or pasilla, or similar)
8-10 cloves garlic, whole
3.5 oz onion, cut in large chunks
7 oz fatty pork (pork belly) or 5 oz cured ham
1 cup good-quality vinegar
0.7 oz salt
0.35 oz ginger (fresh) or 0.18 oz dried ginger
1 tablespoon mixed whole spices (peppercorns, allspice, cloves, optional cinnamon stick)
1 whole lime, cut in chunks
1 tablespoon ground cumin
Additional garlic for internal seasoning (about 4 cloves)
Fresh beef skin or 1 large woven palm mat (approximately 60 x 60 inches), well cleaned and soaked
Strong natural-fiber twine

Instructions

First, thoroughly skin a whole beef head (about 11-13 lb) and pierce it all over with a knife.
Use a sharp small knife to create slits for inserting ('mechar') whole dried chilies (such as guajillo or pasilla, about 5-6), peeled whole garlic cloves (8-10), chunks of fresh onion (about 3.5 oz), and slabs of fatty pork (about 7 oz) or cured ham (5 oz).
All these aromatics and fats should be marinated for 10-12 hours in a mixture of 1 cup good-quality vinegar, 0.7 oz salt, 0.35 oz fresh ginger or 0.18 oz dried, 1 tablespoon mixed whole spices (black peppercorns, cloves, allspice), and 1 whole lime (cut into chunks).
Massage this marinade into the slits as you stuff them.
Mince additional garlic and cumin (1 tablespoon) and push this mixture deep into the beef tongue and windpipe area.
Next, wrap the stuffed head tightly either in fresh beef skin or a thoroughly cleaned and moistened woven palm mat (petate).
Tie securely with strong twine.
Prepare a large underground pit (about 24-28 inches deep and wide), and heat with hardwood until stones placed inside glow red.
Sprinkle the stones with water to produce steam, then carefully lower in the wrapped head.
Cover with more hot stones and glowing embers.
Fill the remaining space with earth to trap the heat, then build a bonfire on top.
Let it cook overnight (at least 10-12 hours).
Uncover in the morning and serve the barbacoa piping hot.

Estimated Calories

650 per serving

Cooking Estimates

Preparing and marinating the beef head takes several hours, and cooking in the covered pit overnight ensures the meat is tender. Each serving is calculated based on typical yields from a whole beef head.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.