Recipe Manuscript

To Make Carroway Cakes In Tumb

Name: To Make Carroway Cakes In Tumb
Prep time: PTPT35M
Cook time: PTPT35M
Yield: 12
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 7 large eggs (use 4 yolks and 3 whites); 1–2 tbsp orange flower water or rose water; Half a whole nutmeg, grated and sifted; 450 g unsalted butter (reserve a little for greasing); 225 g fine white sugar (plus extra for sprinkling); 450 g plain wheat flour; 1–2 tbsp fresh yeast or 2 tsp active dry yeast; 110–170 g caraway comfits (or substitute with 110 g caraway seeds plus 40–60 g sugar pearls); A pinch of salt (optional, modern addition)

1707

From the treasured pages of Mrs. Rachel Kirk Book 1707

Written by Rachel Kirk

Culinary Enlightenment (1700 - 1800)European Intermediate Dessert Snack

Original Recipe • 1707

Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

To Make Carroway Cakes In Tumb

"Take 7 eggs taken out three whites and the straines then beat your eggs with a spoonfull or two of orrange or rose water half a nutmeg knoted and searced with your sugar then mix to it a pound of butterr all butterra little to butterr your Tumb then bruse your butterr amongst your eggs as you did the other then mix in a pound of sugar when your sugar and butterr is well mixed then stirr in a pound of flour by degrees when you have putten in your flour putt in a spoonfull or two of new barm mix this all well together and lett it stand a quarter of an hour then pull your hand into it and putt a quarter of a pound or six ounces of ruf Carroway Comfoites or you may putt a quarter of a pound and a few Carroway seeds then butterr your tumb and putt them in and fill them not to full as you sett them into the oven sprinkle over some of them a few Comfoites & some of them dust on a little sugar.//"

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is laid out in a single, continuous stream—a typical feature of handwritten early modern instructions, prioritizing the sequence of actions over distinct ingredients and steps. Unfamiliar spellings ('pound of butter all butt a little', 'bruse your butter amongst your eggs', 'Tumb') and archaic words ('barm' for yeast, 'comfits' for sugared seeds) reflect the period's culinary lexicon. Measurements referenced pounds and spoonfuls—reflecting domestic scales—and directions required some experience and intuition from the cook, especially regarding oven heat and baking times, which were seldom specified.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Mrs. Rachel Kirk Book 1707 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Mrs. Rachel Kirk Book 1707 (1707)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Rachel Kirk

Era

1707

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A remarkable collection of early 18th-century recipes, Rachel Kirk's work invites readers into the kitchens of the past where classic culinary traditions and timeless flavors come alive. Expect a charming medley of savory feasts and sweet treats reflective of the era's sophisticated palate.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This caraway cake recipe hails from early 18th century Yorkshire, recorded in 1707 by Rachel Kirk. It embodies the celebratory and aromatic sweet breads popular among English households of the period, with caraway seeds prized for both their flavor and their supposed digestive benefits. The use of 'comfits'—sugar-coated caraway seeds—signals both a love for sweet crunch and an early interplay between confectionery and baking. The recipe captures the blend of old and new: integrating yeast for a light, risen crumb, while including aromatic rose or orange water, which were stylish flavorings of the time. Cakes like these might grace the table during festive gatherings or family feasts, demonstrating the host's care and a hint of sophistication.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Cooks of the early 1700s would have used large wooden bowls or trenchers to mix the batter by hand, beating eggs with a spoon or whisk. A 'tumb' refers to a small, deep baking mold—typically earthenware or well-buttered tin. Yeast was fresh from the brewer's barm, not packaged, and heat came from a wood-fired oven, requiring careful tending. For grating nutmeg and sifting flour, cooks used a fine grater and simple sieves or hand-cranked sifters. The use of comfits hints at a well-stocked household, with access to both confectionery and pantry staples.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

35 mins

Cook Time

35 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

7 large eggs (use 4 yolks and 3 whites)
1–2 tbsp orange flower water or rose water
Half a whole nutmeg, grated and sifted
1 lb (16 oz) unsalted butter (reserve a little for greasing)
1 cup fine white sugar (plus extra for sprinkling)
1 lb (16 oz) plain wheat flour
1–2 tbsp fresh yeast or 2 tsp active dry yeast
4–6 oz (about 2/3 to 1 cup) caraway comfits (or substitute with 4 oz caraway seeds plus 1.5–2 oz sugar pearls)
A pinch of salt (optional, modern addition)

Instructions

Begin by separating 7 eggs, reserving only 4 yolks and 3 whites.
Beat these well with 1–2 tablespoons of orange flower water or rose water.
Grate and sift half a nutmeg into the eggs, adding about 1 cup of fine white sugar to sweeten.
Melt 1 pound (16 oz) of unsalted butter (reserving a small amount for greasing), then gently mix it into the egg and sugar mixture.
Once well combined, gradually add 1 pound (16 oz) of plain wheat flour, mixing thoroughly to prevent lumps.
Stir in 1–2 tablespoons of fresh yeast or 2 teaspoons active dry yeast (dissolved in a little warm water).
Let this mixture rest, loosely covered, for 15 minutes to allow the yeast to activate.
Next, by hand, gently fold in 4–6 oz (about 2/3 to 1 cup) of caraway comfits (sugar-coated caraway seeds); if unavailable, use plain caraway seeds and a handful of sugar pearls for texture.
Butter a small cake or pudding mold (traditionally known as a 'tumb'), then fill the mold(s) about two-thirds full with batter.
Sprinkle a few extra caraway comfits or seeds on top, and dust with a little more sugar before baking.
Bake in a medium (340°F) oven for 30–40 minutes, or until golden and set.
Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

Estimated Calories

385 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 20 minutes to prepare the batter and mold, plus 15 minutes to let the yeast activate. Baking takes about 35 minutes. Each serving is estimated to be about 385 calories, and the recipe makes 12 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.