How To Make Sugar Puffs
From the treasured pages of Mrs. Rachel Kirk Book 1707
Written by Rachel Kirk

How To Make Sugar Puffs
"Take half a pound worth of the best Almonds and blanch them and beat them in Rose water all night then mix it to some of your past then put two ounces of Ginger grated and a little Lemon pill finely Shred and a little bruised beat these all well together to a past then perfurme your Sugar with a grain of musk then take two egg whites and beat them with a little rose water to a froth then mix your froth to your sugar if you would make it a red you must putt to some of it a little powder of Vermilion if you would make it green you must take Scutlimcelo water or powder of blew and some of your past make some of your past yellow and Joyne them together to make a green then beat them till you think they bee of right Stuffness and Squeert them up on glazed paper and Sett them in a slow oven##"
Note on the Original Text
Written in the conversational, almost stream-of-consciousness style typical of early 18th-century manuscript recipes, the instructions offer little in precise measurement or timing, focusing more on process and ingredient quality. The spelling reflects older conventions and phonetics of the era, such as 'pillen' for 'peel' and 'bee' for 'be'. The ingredients and method are described in sequence, but without modern distinctions for steps or clear divisions for separate mixtures (almonds, sugar, egg whites), and the use of colors and aromatic ingredients shows the importance placed on both flavor and appearance. Readers were expected to have a working knowledge of prevailing kitchen techniques and instincts for texture and doneness.

Title
Mrs. Rachel Kirk Book 1707 (1707)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Rachel Kirk
Era
1707
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A remarkable collection of early 18th-century recipes, Rachel Kirk's work invites readers into the kitchens of the past where classic culinary traditions and timeless flavors come alive. Expect a charming medley of savory feasts and sweet treats reflective of the era's sophisticated palate.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This intriguing recipe dates from 1707 and is attributed to Rachel Kirk, found in her handwritten manuscript cookbook. It hails from the time when sugar was a luxury, and confections like these puffs were reserved for special gatherings or the tables of the affluent. Perfumed sweets, elaborately colored and aromatically spiced, reflected both growing global trade and the fashionable tastes of the early Georgian period. At this time, almonds, rose water, exotic spices, and even edible perfumes like musk were prized ingredients. Cooks — often women managing grand households — demonstrated their skill and worldliness by producing such delicately flavored and ornately presented sweets for their families and honored guests.

The 18th-century cook would have used a heavy mortar and pestle to grind almonds with rose water, a large wooden or earthenware bowl to mix the ingredients, and a coarse grater for the ginger and lemon zest. For whisking the egg whites, bundles of twigs or a birch whisk might be employed, while shaping was accomplished using spoons or a simple piping bag fashioned from linen. Instead of silicone mats, they laid the mixture on glazed or parchment paper. Baking was done slowly in a brick oven with careful attention to temperature, usually relying on 'feel' rather than thermometers.
Prep Time
40 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 8 oz whole almonds, blanched
- Enough rose water to moisten almonds (about 2–4 tablespoons)
- Pastry dough (approx. 3.5–5 oz, made from flour, sugar, and maybe eggs)
- 2 oz fresh ginger, finely grated
- Zest of 1 lemon, finely shredded
- 1 1/4 cups fine white sugar
- Pinch of edible musk (substitute: a drop of orange blossom water)
- 2 egg whites
- Additional rose water (about 1 tablespoon, for beating egg whites)
- Natural red food coloring (beetroot/raspberry powder) for red
- Spirulina or powdered spinach for green
- Saffron or turmeric for yellow
- Baking parchment or nonstick paper
Instructions
- Begin by blanching 8 ounces of the best whole almonds, then grind them with a little rose water until smooth and fragrant — ideally overnight for a truly tender paste.
- Mix this almond blend into a portion of your prepared pastry dough (which would likely have been a sweet, sugar-based paste at the time).
- To this, add 2 ounces of grated fresh ginger and finely minced zest from one lemon.
- Gently bruise or crush everything together in a large bowl until you have a unform mixture.
- Next, perfume about 1 1/4 cups of fine white sugar with a tiny pinch (no more than a kernel-sized amount) of edible musk (or, as a safe modern substitute, a drop or two of orange blossom water for an aromatic boost).
- Whisk two egg whites with a dash of rose water until stiff peaks form.
- Fold this fragrant meringue gently into your prepared sugar.
- To color your 'Sugar Puffs': if you wish for red, dust the mixture lightly with food-safe red coloring (as vermilion is now toxic, use a beetroot or raspberry powder).
- For green, you might proceed with a little spirulina or spinach powder, mixing it with a portion of your paste.
- For yellow, saffron or turmeric will create a sunny hue.
- Mix tiny portions of these colored pastes as you like, even joining them together for a marbeled effect.
- Beat the mixture until it holds its shape.
- Pipe or spoon small mounds onto baking parchment (glazed paper) and bake at a low oven temperature (approximately 230°F) until set but not browned, for about 45 minutes to an hour.
Estimated Calories
180 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparation takes about 40 minutes, including grinding the almonds and mixing everything together. Baking takes 1 hour. Each serving is around 180 calories. This recipe makes about 12 sugar puffs.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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