Sauce Ravigote For Fish—Σάλτσα Ραβιγγὸτ Ψαριοῦ

This recipe hails from a unique crossroads of cultural exchange—a Greek-language cookbook published in New York in 1917, meant for the Greek diaspora adapting to American life. The cookbook mixes classic European techniques and ingredients with the practicality demanded by early 20th-century American life, all through the lens of Greek home cooks and professional chefs. Ravigote—as a French sauce—naturally finds itself reinterpreted here for fish, anchoring itself both in Old World tradition and New World adaptability. The inclusion of mayonnaise instead of the more classic vinaigrette base reflects the mayonnaise revolution of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when this new 'convenience' sauce became all the rage in home and restaurant kitchens alike.

Cooks in 1917 New York would use a sturdy mortar and pestle to crush the anchovies and meld them into a paste, and perhaps a sharp kitchen knife to finely mince the pickles and capers. Mixing was likely done by hand, with a wooden spoon or a whisk, and the sauce presented in a simple serving bowl. If prepared in a restaurant, the chef may have had access to a mixing bowl and spatula as well—no electric processors needed!