Recipe Manuscript

Sauce For A Legg Of Veale Or Calves Head

Name: Sauce For A Legg Of Veale Or Calves Head
Prep time: PTPT10M
Cook time: PTPT30M
Yield: 6
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 475 ml good-quality beef or veal broth; 475 ml oyster liquor (from fresh oysters, or 2-3 jars/cans oysters, strained); 120 ml dry red wine (claret or substitute merlot/cabernet); 1 large blade mace (or 1/2 tsp ground mace); 1 tsp whole black peppercorns; 4 whole cloves; 4 large egg yolks; 225 g unsalted butter; 30 g fresh parsley, chopped; 8-10 oysters, chopped finely; 100 g cooked calf’s brains, chopped (sub: veal sweetbreads or omit if unavailable)

1626

From the treasured pages of Medicinal and cookery recipes of Mary Baumfylde

Written by Mary Baumfylde

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch Other

Sauce For A Legg Of Veale Or Calves Head

Original Recipe • 1626

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Sauce For A Legg Of Veale Or Calves Head

"Take a pint of good broth a pint of Oyster liquour half a pint of Clarret put in the boylemg a large blade of mace whole peper & cloves, lett it boyle for halfe hour & keep it close together covered and take yelks of eggs well beaten and stirr it in with half a pound of Butter when it Thicks up putt in a hand full of parsy som Oysters cut very small & the Brains of a calves head broy them & putt them all to gather, Then take the Breale & drice it up very well"

Note on the Original Text

The original recipe is written in the language of its time, with elastic spellings ('boylemg', 'peper', 'parsy'), and assumes familiarity with kitchen processes and proportions—standard for 17th- to 18th-century cooks. There are no precise measurements or temperatures, so terms like 'a pint' are interpreted as about 475 ml, and 'half a pound' as 225 g. The order of steps requires some deciphering: eggs are beaten and stirred in just before the sauce thickens (to prevent curdling), followed by the addition of herbs, oysters, and brains. The term 'broy' likely instructs to chop or mince the brains, not grill them. The recipe expects the cook to use their experience to judge the right consistency and seasoning.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Medicinal and cookery recipes of Mary Baumfylde - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Medicinal and cookery recipes of Mary Baumfylde (1626)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Mary Baumfylde

Era

1626

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A sumptuous journey into early 17th-century English cookery, this delightful volume offers a tantalizing glimpse into the recipes, flavors, and culinary secrets that once graced aristocratic tables. Prepare for a taste of history, presented with wit and wisdom!

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe hails from an English household manuscript dating between 1626 and the mid-18th century, likely written by Mary Baumfylde or someone in her circle. It reflects the opulent sauces once served alongside roasted or boiled veal or calf’s head—a prized delicacy of early modern British cuisine. Such sauces drew on the wealth of pantry staples available to upper-class kitchens: broths, oysters (then inexpensive and commonplace), imported spices, eggs, and even organ meats. The method showcases both the taste for luxurious, creamy sauces and a penchant for complex flavors, combining umami-rich shellfish with warming spices and the richness of butter and egg.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Cooks of the period would have employed heavy-bottomed saucepans or copper pots over a wood or coal-fired hearth. A wooden spoon or whisk served for stirring, and a mortar and pestle might have been used to crack spices if not already whole. A simple cloth or heavy ceramic bowl was used to beat egg yolks by hand. Straining broths and liquids was typically done through linen or muslin cloths to ensure a smooth, velvety sauce.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

10 mins

Cook Time

30 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

2 cups good-quality beef or veal broth
2 cups oyster liquor (from fresh oysters, or 2-3 jars/cans oysters, strained)
1/2 cup dry red wine (claret or substitute merlot/cabernet)
1 large blade mace (or 1/2 tsp ground mace)
1 tsp whole black peppercorns
4 whole cloves
4 large egg yolks
8 oz unsalted butter
1 oz fresh parsley, chopped
8-10 oysters, chopped finely
3.5 oz cooked calf’s brains, chopped (sub: veal sweetbreads or omit if unavailable)

Instructions

Begin by simmering 2 cups of good-quality beef or veal broth and 2 cups of the liquid drained from fresh oysters, along with 1/2 cup of dry red wine (a good claret-style wine).
Into this pot, add one large blade of mace (or substitute with 1/2 teaspoon ground mace if unavailable), 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns, and 4 whole cloves.
Cover the pot and let these flavors infuse over medium-low heat for about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, beat 4 large egg yolks until smooth.
After the broth mixture has simmered, temper the yolks with some hot liquid, then stir them back into the pot along with 8 ounces of unsalted butter, whisking until the sauce thickens—but do not let it boil, or the eggs may scramble.
Add a generous handful (roughly 1 ounce) of freshly chopped parsley, 8-10 oysters chopped finely, and, if available, the cooked brains from a calf's head, roughly chopped.
(If unavailable, substitute with finely minced veal sweetbreads or omit.) Continue stirring until everything is well combined and heated through.
Serve immediately over a roasted veal leg or prepared calf’s head, garnished with extra parsley if desired.

Estimated Calories

320 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 10 minutes to prepare the ingredients, and the sauce simmers for about 30 minutes. This makes enough sauce for 6 servings. Each serving has an estimated 320 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.