To Make Pippin Marmelet ~ Mr R

This recipe is drawn from 'The Lady Craven's receipt-booke', a remarkable English manuscript collection of household and culinary recipes assembled by Elizabeth, Baroness Craven, between 1702–1704. It offers an intimate glimpse into the kitchens of landed gentry at the turn of the 18th century, where recipes, now called 'receipts', moved between elite households and were often attributed to notable friends or family. Marmalade was far broader in definition in the early 1700s than the citrus preserve we know today—it could be made from many fruits, including apples, and was prized as both a sweetmeat and a medicinal food. The inclusion of wine and lemon reflects both the opulence and the medicinal theories of the time.

In Lady Craven's time, the cook would have prepared this marmalade over an open hearth or in a brick oven, using wide, heavy-bottomed pans made of copper or brass to allow for rapid, even boiling. The apples would be peeled and cored with a small paring knife. Sugar was bought in loaves and grated or beaten fine. Lemon rind would be carefully pared with a small knife, boiled in a small pot, and minced with a large-bladed knife or cleaver. Once finished, the marmalade would be poured into glass jars or earthenware pots, covered with parchment or leather, and stored in a cool pantry.