Hummern-Chowder
"Man vermischt mit einer Viertel-Obertasse voll Butter 3 fein zerstoßene Zwiebackstücke und das grüne Fett des Hummers. 1 Quart Milch wird zum Kochen gebracht. Man würze mit einem knappen Theelöffel voll Salz, etwas weißem Pfeffer und einem Salzlöffel voll spanischem Pfeffer, und gieße sodann die kochende Milch allmählig über den Hummern-Brei. Nachdem man das Ganze in einen Doppelkeffel gethan, fügt man das in Würfel zerschnittene Hummernfleisch hinzu, läßt es aufkochen und bringt es alsdann auf die Tafel."
English Translation
"Lobster Chowder. Mix together a quarter cup of butter, 3 finely crushed pieces of zwieback, and the green fat of the lobster. Bring 1 quart of milk to a boil. Season with a scant teaspoon of salt, some white pepper, and a dessertspoon of paprika, then gradually pour the boiling milk over the lobster mixture. After transferring everything to a double boiler, add the lobster meat cut into cubes, let it come to a boil, and then serve it at the table."
Note on the Original Text
The original recipe employs precision by referencing widely accepted household measures of the time—'Theelöffel' (teaspoon) and 'Obertasse' (coffee cup). Ingredients like the 'grüne Fett des Hummers' (lobster tomalley) were commonly used for both flavor and richness, even if now considered a delicacy. Spelling reflects 19th-century German orthography, and some compound words ('Hummern-Chowder') illustrate how English culinary terms intermingled with German in immigrant communities. The instruction order is compact, relying on the reader's kitchen intuition for steps like stirring and temperature control, which would have been learned through practice.
Title
Henriette Davidis praktisches kochbuch für die gewöhnliche und feinere küche (1897)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Henriette Davidis
Era
1897
Publisher
C.N. Caspar
Background
A beloved staple in German kitchens, this practical cookbook by Henriette Davidis serves up a rich array of recipes ranging from everyday fare to refined culinary delights. Immerse yourself in traditional techniques and timeless flavors, all artfully presented for both the ordinary and ambitious cook.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe comes from Henriette Davidis' 'Praktisches Kochbuch,' a foundational cookbook for German-speaking households in the late 19th century. Many German immigrants brought Davidis' books with them to America, using them as a culinary lifeline and a way to adapt beloved recipes to local ingredients and new contexts. Published in Milwaukee in 1897, this edition targeted the German-American community, integrating New World ingredients like lobster—which was newly accessible thanks to modern transportation—into classic German preparations. This chowder reflects both the abundance of American seafood and the comfort-food affinity of German cooks.
The original process called for a Doppelkeffel, a double boiler, which enabled careful, gentle cooking without burning the milk or delicate lobster meat. A sturdy whisk or wooden spoon would have been used for mixing, and all chopping would be done with a sharp kitchen knife. Cooking over a wood or coal stove was standard, and zwieback was often homemade or purchased from a local German bakery.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 tbsp unsalted butter
- 3 pieces zwieback (or 3 pieces melba toast/toasted white bread, each about 0.5 oz)
- Tomalley (green liver/fat) from 1 cooked lobster
- 4 cups whole milk
- 1 tsp salt
- A pinch of white pepper
- 1⁄2 tsp paprika (Spanish paprika or substitute with regular paprika)
- Meat from 1 large cooked lobster, diced (about 9 oz lobster meat)
Instructions
- To make this 19th-century lobster chowder in a modern kitchen, begin by creaming together about 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter with 3 finely crushed pieces of zwieback (or substitute with melba toast or lightly toasted bread) and the soft green tomalley (the liver) of a cooked lobster.
- Next, bring 4 cups of whole milk to a gentle boil.
- Season the milk with roughly 1 teaspoon of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and about 1⁄2 teaspoon of Spanish paprika for the intended 'spanischer Pfeffer.' Slowly pour the hot milk over the butter, zwieback, and tomalley mixture, stirring well to combine.
- Transfer all contents to a double boiler if available, or use a heavy-bottomed pot over low heat.
- Add the diced lobster meat (from one large cooked lobster) and gently bring everything just to a simmer, stirring to prevent scorching.
- Serve hot, ideally with rustic bread on the side to capture the spirit of late 19th-century German-American dining.
Estimated Calories
280 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 10 minutes to get your ingredients ready, and around 20 minutes to cook the chowder on the stove. Each serving has about 280 calories, and the recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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