Recipe Manuscript

Vtiles Alicam Purgatam Infundis

"You Pour Cleaned Groats"

1475

From the treasured pages of Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts)

Written by Apicius

Vtiles Alicam Purgatam Infundis
Original Recipe • 1475
Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Vtiles Alicam Purgatam Infundis

"Vltes alicam purgatim infundis coquis dum feruit oleum mittis ut spissetur adicies cerebella duo decocta & semilibram pulpe q. ad officulam et cerebellis teres et i caccabu mittes. Teres piper ligusticum fenucli semen suffundis Liquamen et merum modicum & mittis in caccabu sup cerebella & pulpas ubi satis fuit uti uir mites. ex hoc paulatim alica condies sed uti usq: sucus uideatur."

English Translation

"You pour the cleaned groats, cook them, and while it boils, you add oil so that it thickens. You add two boiled brains and half a pound of pulp, whichever is suitable for the dish, and mash them with the brains, then put them in a pot. Grind pepper, lovage, fennel seed, moisten with garum (fish sauce) and a little wine, and pour into the pot over the brains and pulp, until it is suitable as you wish. From this little by little you season the groats, but so that the juice is still visible."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in terse, practical Latin, omitting quantities and assuming the reader’s familiarity with basic processes. Alica refers to cleaned, crushed wheat—often translated as groats or semolina. ‘Cerebella’ means brains, likely of lamb or calf. Liquamen, the Roman fish sauce, played a critical role in seasoning. Spellings follow the medieval Latin practice: 'alicam' for alica, 'coquis' for cook, and so forth. Instructions leap from step to step; punctuation is minimal, and the prose blends ingredients and process fluidly. This brevity is typical of Apician recipes, inviting experienced cooks to improvise.

Recipe's Origin
Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Apicius

Era

1475

Publisher

Venice

Background

A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.

Kindly made available by

University of Pennsyllvania
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe hails from the famed Apicius collection, a Roman cookbook likely compiled in the late 4th or early 5th century CE, though attributed to the 1st century gourmet Marcus Gavius Apicius. The version found here comes through a 15th-century Italian manuscript, at the crossroads of manuscript culture and the first age of print. Apicius’s recipes blend opulence with practicality, offering a window into elite Roman dining and the use of ingredients like brains and liquamen, which were considered both luxurious and, to some extent, medicinal. The recipe is a wonderful example of 'ancient porridge,' combining grains, offal, and aromatic spices as part of a dish designed for both sustenance and pleasure. This manuscript would have been used by learned cooks or stewards in renaissance Italy, preserving the traditions of ancient Rome.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

Originally, this dish would have required a sturdy earthenware or bronze pot (caccabus) for simmering the mixture, a mortar and pestle for grinding spices and pounding the brains and meat to a fine paste, a sharp knife for chopping, and perhaps a wooden stirring paddle. A hearth or open fire would serve as the cooking heat, with all mixing performed by hand. For serving, either small bowls or shallow dishes would distribute the thickened alica for each diner.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

15 mins

Cook Time

30 mins

Servings

4

Ingredients

  • 5.3 ounces wheat semolina (or coarse barley grits as substitute)
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 lamb or calf brains, pre-boiled (approx. 8.8 ounces total; tofu as vegetarian substitute)
  • 7 ounces finely cooked meat pulp (chicken, pork, or veal; mushrooms as vegetarian option)
  • 0.5 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • A pinch of lovage (or celery leaf)
  • 0.5 teaspoon fennel seeds
  • 2 tablespoons liquamen (or Thai fish sauce)
  • 2 tablespoons white wine

Instructions

  1. Begin by soaking about 5.3 ounces of cleaned wheat semolina (or barley grits, as a substitute) in cold water until it swells.
  2. Bring this mixture to a simmer in a pot.
  3. Once boiling, stir in a generous splash (about 2 tablespoons) of olive oil to help thicken the alica (semolina).
  4. Next, add two pre-boiled lamb or calf brains (about 8.8 ounces combined).
  5. Also, add about 7 ounces of well-cooked and finely chopped meat pulp (chicken, pork, or veal are the most plausible).
  6. Mash the brains and meat pulp together in a mortar until you have a smooth mixture, then add this back into the pot.
  7. Grind together in a mortar: half a teaspoon of black pepper, a pinch of lovage (or a little celery leaf if unavailable), and half a teaspoon of fennel seed.
  8. Moisten this spice mix with 2 tablespoons of liquamen (Roman fish sauce; you can substitute Thai fish sauce) and 2 tablespoons of white wine.
  9. Pour this spiced liquid into the pot with brains and meat.
  10. Simmer gently, stirring, until the mixture is thickened and the flavors have mingled.
  11. Finally, taste and adjust the seasoning.
  12. To serve, spoon the thickened porridge (alica) into bowls, ensuring some of the rich, perfumed sauce sits atop, with the meat and brain mixture visible in the dish.

Estimated Calories

350 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 15 minutes to prepare the ingredients and 30 minutes to cook the dish. Each serving has around 350 calories. This recipe makes 4 servings.

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