
Betas
"Occides porrum, Coriandrum. Cominum. Uuam passam, farinam & ex ovis medullam mittes, ligabis & ita inferes & liquamine oleo aceto. Aliter betas elixas & senapi oleo modico & aceto bene inferuntur."
English Translation
"Beets. Kill leek, coriander, cumin, raisins, flour, and the yolk of eggs; mix them, bind them together, and thus serve with fish sauce, oil, and vinegar. Alternatively, boil beets and serve them well with mustard, a little oil, and vinegar."
Note on the Original Text
Roman recipes like this one are written in a terse, almost shorthand style—listing ingredients and key actions, but eschewing step-by-step instructions. Quantities were rarely specified as the cook was to use experience and taste. The Latin terms—like 'liquamine' for garum—may appear unfamiliar, but reflect the essential flavor bases of Roman cuisine. Spelling in the manuscript follows medieval conventions, sometimes diverging from classical Latin, such as 'uuam passam' (raisin) and 'senapi' (mustard). The instructions expect cooks to understand kitchen basics, like how to 'ligabis' (bind) a mixture, revealing the recipe's intended audience of skilled household cooks.

Title
Apicius - De re coquinaria (handwritten excerpts) (1475)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Apicius
Era
1475
Publisher
Venice
Background
A delectable compendium of ancient Roman cookery, this collection invites you to taste the flavors of antiquity through ten tantalizing sections based on Apicius’s famed De re coquinaria. Savor recipes, tips, and culinary wisdom penned in a fine Italian hand for the epicurean elite of the 15th century.
Kindly made available by
University of Pennsyllvania
This recipe comes from a precious 15th-century Italian manuscript, part of a collection attributed to Apicius, the legendary Roman gourmet. These recipes reflect the tastes and methods of the late Roman Empire, drawing upon Mediterranean ingredients and unique flavor pairings. Betas offers a window into how ancient cooks combined earthy vegetables like beets with sweet and aromatic ingredients, showcasing both everyday and more refined approaches to preparing humble produce. The simplicity of the alternative version—just boiled beets with mustard, oil, and vinegar—provides a Roman twist on what remains a classic salad centuries later.

This dish would have been prepared with a sturdy knife for trimming the beets, a mortar and pestle for grinding spices, and perhaps a wooden spoon for mixing. Cooking would use a simple clay or bronze pot over a fire, and serving would be on earthenware or wooden platters. To make the sauce, a small bowl or mortar would be used to blend the garum, oil, and vinegar before drizzling it over the finished beets.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
25 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb beets (with greens, or substitute chard/spinach for greens)
- 0.35 oz fresh coriander (or 1 tsp dried coriander seeds)
- 1 tsp ground cumin (about 0.1 oz)
- 1.75 oz raisins (or other dried sweet grapes)
- 1.75 oz wheat flour
- 2 egg yolks (or whole marrow of 2 eggs, as a possible interpretation)
- 2 tbsp olive oil (about 1 fl oz)
- 2 tbsp wine vinegar (about 1 fl oz)
- 1 tbsp garum (Roman fish sauce; substitute Thai fish sauce or anchovy essence, about 0.5 fl oz)
- 1 tsp mustard (about 0.18 oz; for the alternate version)
Instructions
- To prepare 'Betas' (beets), begin by trimming and cleaning about 1 lb of fresh beet greens and roots.
- Have ready a small handful (around 0.35 oz) each of fresh coriander and ground cumin.
- Take 1.75 oz of raisins, 1.75 oz of wheat flour, and use the yolk (or marrow) of 2 eggs to enrich the mixture.
- Bind all together into a soft but firm mass.
- Gently poach or cook this, and serve it dressed with a sauce of garum (or anchovy sauce as a substitute), olive oil, and vinegar.
- Alternatively, you can simply boil or steam the beets, then serve them generously dressed with mustard, a dash of good-quality olive oil, and wine vinegar.
- Serve warm or at room temperature.
Estimated Calories
170 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 15 minutes to prepare the ingredients and about 25 minutes to cook the beets and form the mixture. Each serving has around 170 calories, and this recipe serves 4 people.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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