Zuckerkastanien
"Sugar Chestnuts"
From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Zuckerkastanien
"Schwelle Mandeln und stoße sie fein; nimm in ein Reindl 4 Loth Zucker, gieße ein wenig Wasser daran, lasse ihn sieden, bis er sich spinnt, gib die Mandeln hinein, und verrühre sie so lange, bis sie trocknen. Hernach bestreue die Kastanien-Model mit Zucker, drücke den Teig hinein, und klopfe die geformten Kastanien heraus; darnach gib 4 Eidotter, einen Kaffeelöffel voll Wein und Zucker in eine Schale, stecke die Kastanien auf eine Gabel, tunke sie gut ein, und brate sie am Kohlenfeuer."
English Translation
"Blanch almonds and pound them finely; take 4 lots of sugar in a pan, pour in a little water, let it boil until it spins threads, add the almonds, and stir until they dry. Then sprinkle the chestnut molds with sugar, press the dough into them, and knock out the shaped chestnuts; next, put 4 egg yolks, a teaspoon of wine, and sugar in a bowl, stick the chestnuts on a fork, dip them well, and roast them over a coal fire."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe illustrates typical mid-19th-century German-language cookery writing: concise, relying on assumed kitchen knowledge, and full of unstated steps. Quantities are given in 'Loth,' an old weight (about 16 grams), and directions use sensory cues (e.g., 'until the sugar spins a thread'). Spelling and grammar reflect older conventions ('stoße' for 'stoßen', 'Reindl' for pan). The text flows as a sequence of tasks, assuming the reader knows how to translate them into action, and with a little practice, brings living taste and texture out of sparse words.

Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe for 'Zuckerkastanien' (Sugar Chestnuts) is drawn from the 1850 Viennese cookbook 'Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen,' a beloved manual of both elegant table fare and hearty Austrian-Bohemian home cooking. Written by a seasoned housekeeper-chef, Marianka, the work reflects the domestic and culinary world of mid-19th-century Central Europe. Recipes like this straddle the border between confectionery and baked dessert, demonstrating both resourcefulness (turning almonds into luxurious 'chestnuts') and a playful approach to sweets. Such dishes would grace both simple family tables and the more elaborate feasts of the middle and upper bourgeoisie, especially in an era where real chestnuts were valued, but marzipan-style treats signaled sophistication.

In the 1850s kitchen, almonds would be blanched and ground in a sturdy mortar and pestle or possibly with a hand-cranked rotary grinder. Sugar syrup was prepared in small copper or tin-lined saucepans. The critical sugar-cooking step ('bis er sich spinnt') was judged by hand, spinning a thread between the fingers. Specialty chestnut-shaped wooden or tin molds were dusted with sugar to help form and release the shaped almond paste. The 'chestnuts' were finished by spearing onto forks and roasting gently over a coal fire, or possibly with an early salamander broiler.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 3.5 oz whole almonds, blanched
- 2.25 oz granulated sugar (or about 4 tablespoons, traditional 'Loth' measurement)
- 1–2 tablespoons water
- Extra sugar for molding and for the glaze
- 4 egg yolks
- 1 teaspoon white wine (substitute: sherry or Marsala if preferred)
- Optional: additional granulated sugar for dusting
Instructions
- Start by blanching about 3.5 ounces of whole almonds to remove the skins, then grind them finely.
- In a small saucepan, combine 2.25 ounces (roughly 4 tablespoons) of granulated sugar with just enough water (about 1–2 tablespoons) to moisten it, and heat gently.
- Allow the syrup to cook until it spins a thread (about 230–234°F/110–112°C).
- Stir in the ground almonds and mix over low heat until the mixture appears dry and begins to clump.
- Meanwhile, prepare small chestnut-shaped molds by dusting them with sugar, then press the almond mixture firmly inside.
- Gently knock the shaped 'chestnuts' from the molds.
- For the glaze, whisk together 4 egg yolks, 1 teaspoon of white wine, and extra sugar until smooth.
- Spear each almond 'chestnut' on a fork or skewer, dip it into the glaze, and then either roast gently over glowing coals or use a kitchen torch or broiler to set the coating.
Estimated Calories
110 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing these almond 'chestnuts' takes about 20 minutes, including blanching and grinding the almonds and shaping the mixture. Cooking the sugar syrup and mixing with almonds takes about 15 minutes. Glazing and browning can take about 10 minutes. Each serving has about 110 calories, and this recipe makes around 10 pieces.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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