Tragantteig
"Tragacanth Dough"
From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Tragantteig
"Man gibt auf ein Nudelbret eine Hand voll gestoßenen Zucker, eben so viel schönes Mehl, etwas in der Eiklar geweichten Tragant, und von 1 Ei die Klar dazu; macht den Teig damit zusammen, und arbeitet ihn gut ab, daß er klar wird. Dann schneidet man ihn auf 4 Theile, unter einen Theil gibt man einen Ziegel geriebene Schokolade, daß er braun wird, in den 2ten Spinattopfen, in den 3ten Alkermessaft, und in den vierten 4 oder 5 Tropfen Safranwasser. Dann walkt man diesen Teig aus, und macht mit Modeln Laubwerk und allerhand Verzierungen und Figuren, besonders zu Aufsäßen für Torten, daraus."
English Translation
"Place a handful of crushed sugar and an equal amount of fine flour onto a pastry board, add some tragacanth that has been softened in egg white, and the white from one egg; mix together to make the dough, and knead it well until it becomes clear. Then divide it into four parts: to one part, add a brick of grated chocolate so it becomes brown; into the second, add spinach juice; into the third, add alchermes; and into the fourth, add four or five drops of saffron water. Then roll out this dough and use moulds to make foliage and various decorations and figures, especially to decorate and top pies."
Note on the Original Text
The original recipe gives quantities in approximate, experiential terms ('a handful', 'about as much'), typical of mid-19th century domestic cookbooks intended for skilled cooks rather than novices. The use of 'Tragant' (tragacanth gum) was common for its gelling and stabilizing properties, predating widespread use of modern gum additives. Words like 'Eiklar' (egg white), 'walken' (to knead/roll), and 'Modeln' (molds) reflect period Austrian-German spelling and culinary jargon. The instructions are succinct and assume familiarity with kneading, color extraction, and decorative work—skills which were the hallmark of a profession or highly trained household cook.

Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe is drawn from 'Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen,' a Viennese cookbook first published in 1850. Marie (Marianka), the cook, served a noble household and compiled her culinary experience to create both elegant and everyday dishes suitable for mid-19th century Austrian and Bohemian households, especially during financially challenging times. The Tragantteig is a colorful gum paste, a precursor to modern fondant or sugar paste, used primarily for making intricate edible decorations for desserts. Such preparations were a sign of refinement at aristocratic tables and showcased the cook's skill and the household's standing.

Historically, this dough would be prepared on a large wooden pastry board, using a mortar and pestle to grind sugar and chocolate. A simple kitchen knife or pastry cutter divided the dough, while hand-carved wooden molds and formers shaped the delicate decorations. A rolling pin would have been used to flatten the dough evenly before pressing it into ornate shapes.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
0 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 3.5 oz powdered sugar
- 3.5 oz fine wheat flour
- 0.18 oz (about 1 tsp) tragacanth gum (tragant; or substitute 0.18 oz gum arabic, softened in egg white)
- 1 large egg white (about 1 oz)
- 0.35 oz (1 generous tbsp) grated dark chocolate
- 0.35 oz (1 generous tbsp) cooked spinach, puréed (or food-safe green coloring)
- 2 tsp alchermes liqueur (or substitute red fruit syrup)
- 4–5 drops saffron water (or substitute a little turmeric water if saffron unavailable)
Instructions
- To prepare this traditional Tragant paste, begin by placing approximately 3.5 ounces of finely ground sugar and an equal amount (3.5 ounces) of fine wheat flour on a clean work surface.
- Soften about 0.18 ounces (roughly 1 teaspoon) of tragacanth gum (tragant) by soaking it in the egg white from one large egg.
- Add this gum and the egg white to the flour-sugar mixture, kneading until a smooth, clear, and pliable dough forms.
- Divide the dough into four parts.
- To one part, mix in about 0.35 ounces (1 generous tablespoon) of finely grated dark chocolate for a rich brown color.
- For another, incorporate 0.35 ounces (1 generous tablespoon) of cooked spinach purée to tint it green.
- For the third, add a splash (about 2 teaspoons) of alchermes liqueur for a rosy hue, and for the last part, blend in 4–5 drops of saffron water for a golden color.
- Roll each dough thinly and press into decorative molds to create leaves, flowers, or other ornamental shapes, perfect for decorating cakes and tortes.
Estimated Calories
90 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 20 minutes to prepare the dough, color it, and shape it with molds. There is no baking or cooking required for this paste, so you don’t need extra cooking time. Each serving of the decorated paste has about 90 calories, and the recipe makes 8 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
Join the Discussion
Rate This Recipe
Dietary Preference
Culinary Technique

Den Bockfisch In Einer Fleisch Suppen Zu Kochen
This recipe hails from a German manuscript cookbook compiled in 1696, a time whe...

Die Grieß Nudlen Zumachen
This recipe comes from a rather mysterious manuscript cookbook, penned anonymous...

Ein Boudain
This recipe comes from an anonymous German-language manuscript cookbook from 169...

Ein Gesaltzen Citroni
This recipe, dating from 1696, comes from an extensive anonymous German cookbook...
Browse our complete collection of time-honored recipes