To Make Past Of Apricocks
From the treasured pages of Culinary and medicinal recipe book of Mary Smith
Written by Mary Smith
To Make Past Of Apricocks
"take of the ripest of Apricocks & pair them thin & cut them in pieces & put them in a eartthen pot & set it in a skillef of watter & cover it close & Let it boyl half an hour & stir it sometims with a spoone when it is well broken take it ovt & put it in a poringer & but first waye y poringer & y weight of y Apricocks & put as much watter to your suger as will wet it well & set it on y fier & boyl it to suger againe & y put it into y pulpe of Apricocks & stir it together & put it ina dish & every day twice a day heat it but Let it not boyl so set it on the fier every day till it be thick enofe to Lye upon platts so make it in littel caks & set it in a stove to dry and a when it will not stick to y finger turn them a"
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is written in the concise, engineered voice of 17th-century English housewifery—often omitting quantities and relying on the cook's intuition and experience. Unusual spellings like 'boyl' (boil), 'past' (paste), and 'Apricocks' (apricots) are typical of the time before spelling was standardized. Instructions such as 'way your poringer & y weight of y Apricocks' mean to weigh both the vessel and the fruit, then match sugar to the net weight. Terms like 'set it in a stove' reflect older, broader meanings for words that have changed over time.
Title
Culinary and medicinal recipe book of Mary Smith (1662)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Smith
Era
1662
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful window into 17th-century kitchens, this cookbook serves up recipes and culinary wisdom from a bygone era, inviting readers to savor the flavors and traditions of the past.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from mid-17th century England, specifically from the household manuscript of Mary Smith, dated around 1662. At that time, 'pastes' were a popular way to preserve precious fruits before refrigeration—transforming seasonal abundance into jewel-like confections for the winter table, reminiscent of pâte de fruit. Apricots were treasured imports, sometimes grown in aristocratic gardens, aligning this treat with luxury and special occasions.
The original recipe calls for an 'earthen pot,' a sturdy ceramic vessel, and a 'skillet of water'—essentially setting up a rudimentary double boiler to prevent scorching. The cover ensured a gentle, moist heat. Additional equipment included scales for weighing, spoons for stirring, and a 'poringer' (a small bowl) for measuring the fruit and sugar by weight. Afterwards, the paste was shaped into little 'cakes' and left to dry, typically in a warm chamber or a 'stove,' meaning a heated drying cupboard or airing room.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 30 mins
Servings
14
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 pound ripe apricots (substitute with ripe peaches or nectarines if unavailable)
- 1 pound granulated sugar
- A little water (about 2–3 tablespoons, just enough to dissolve the sugar)
Instructions
- Begin by selecting the ripest apricots you can find—about 1 pound makes a good batch.
- Peel them thinly, remove the stones, and slice the flesh.
- Place these in a heatproof ceramic or glass bowl (mimicking the 'earthen pot'), and set the bowl over a pot of simmering water (a double boiler).
- Cover and allow to steam-cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally until well broken down.
- Take the bowl off the heat.
- Weigh your cooked apricots.
- For every 1 pound of pulp, weigh out an equal amount (1 pound) of granulated sugar.
- In a saucepan, just moisten the sugar with a little water and heat gently, stirring constantly, until it dissolves and comes to a soft-ball stage (about 240°F/115°C), but do not let it caramelize.
- Combine this cooked sugar with the apricot pulp, and stir until smooth.
- Return the mixture (still in the bowl) over the simmering water each day, twice a day, to gently thicken—do not let it boil.
- Once it's thick enough to hold its shape on a plate, spoon into small rounds or 'cakes' on parchment-lined trays.
- Allow to dry in a warm, dry place for several days, turning occasionally, until set and not sticky.
Estimated Calories
70 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 30 minutes to cook the apricots, with extra short heating sessions over several days until the mix thickens. Preparing the fruit, slicing, and weighing takes around 15 minutes. Each small fruit round has about 70 calories. This recipe makes about 14 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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