To Make Almond Cakes
From the treasured pages of Cookery book of Ann Goodenough
Written by Ann Goodenough

To Make Almond Cakes
"X Take a pound of Jordan Almonds Blanch them in cold water Dry them in a clean cloth Then Beat them in a Stone mortar very fine putting now and then a little rose water to keep them from Oyling then put them out into a dish and have a pound of double refined Sugar beaten ready and let it bee beaten very fine Then mix it with the Almonds with the backs of a Spoon and Set it on a Chafindish of coals and Lett it Stand continually Stirring it untill it bee thoroughlie Hott then take it of and Lett it Stand untill it bee thoroughlie cold have readie the whites of eggs Beaten with a Spoon full of flower to froth them mix them well with the Almonds Doe Batter your plates very thin droping them on Soe Sugar them and Bake them when they are risen raise them with a knife and Soe let them Stand untill they are hardend but not to much collored"
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the narrative, conversational style typical of early 18th-century English household cookery manuscripts, with a focus on method rather than precise measurement or timing. The spelling reflects contemporary conventions ('Soe', 'Hott', 'thoroughlie'), and instructions rely on terms like 'oyling' (to prevent oily almond paste) and 'double refined' sugar (fine white sugar). Directions such as 'bee thoroughlie Hott' and 'not to much collored' highlight the importance of visual and tactile cues over exactness—intuition was the cook's best tool. This charming imprecision encourages flexibility and adaptation in the modern kitchen.

Title
Cookery book of Ann Goodenough (1738)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Goodenough
Era
1738
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful journey into the kitchens of early 18th-century England, this collection captures the flair and flavors of its time with recipes crafted by the inventive Ann Goodenough. Expect a charming medley of hearty roasts, comforting pies, and time-honored confections, perfect for those wishing to dine as they did in Georgian days.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This delightful recipe originates from Ann Goodenough's manuscript, composed between 1700 and 1775—a period rich in British domestic culinary innovation. Almond cakes were a luxurious treat, signaling wealth and refinement due to expensive imported almonds and sugar. Rose water, a common aromatic in the period, added an exotic, floral touch, as was fashionable in British baking before vanilla dominated. Recipes like these were exchanged among households and painstakingly penned into manuscript books, treasured as family heirlooms. The cooks would rely on instinct and experience, as precise temperatures and measurements were not in common use.

In its original form, this recipe would have required a stone mortar and pestle for grinding the almonds, a large wooden spoon for mixing, a chafing dish (a portable brazier with coals) to gently heat the almond paste, and a baking plate or tray—often metal, sometimes lined with paper. Eggs would be frothed with a fork or spoon, and coal-fired ovens or hearth ovens provided the heat for baking. A sharp kitchen knife was used to 'raise' the cakes once they had risen.
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
18 mins
Servings
24
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb Jordan almonds (or plain blanched almonds)
- 2–3 tsp rose water
- 1 lb caster sugar (double-refined sugar)
- 3 large egg whites
- 1 tbsp plain flour
- extra caster sugar (for dusting)
Instructions
- Begin by blanching 1 pound of Jordan almonds in cold water.
- Dry completely, then grind them finely in a food processor or mortar and pestle, adding a little rose water (about 2–3 teaspoons) periodically to prevent the almonds from becoming oily.
- In a large bowl, combine the almond paste with 1 pound of finely ground caster sugar, mixing thoroughly using the back of a spoon.
- Transfer the mixture to a saucepan and warm it gently over low heat, stirring continuously until it is hot but not cooked or colored.
- Remove from heat and cool completely.
- Meanwhile, beat the whites of 3 large eggs together with 1 tablespoon of plain flour until frothy.
- Gently fold the egg mixture into the almond-sugar paste until well combined.
- Lightly grease a baking tray or line with baking parchment.
- Using a spoon or piping bag, drop small rounds of the batter onto the tray.
- Dust the tops generously with caster sugar.
- Bake in a preheated oven at 300°F (150°C) until the cakes have risen and are just set but not deeply colored (about 15–18 minutes).
- As soon as they rise, carefully lift them around the edges with a knife, then leave to cool on the tray until fully hardened.
- Enjoy these delicate, airy almond cakes with a cup of tea.
Estimated Calories
80 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 25 minutes to prepare the almond batter, and then baking in the oven takes about 15–18 minutes. This recipe makes about 24 small almond cakes, and each one has around 80 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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