To Make A Frigesy From
From the treasured pages of Cookery book of Ann Goodenough
Written by Ann Goodenough

To Make A Frigesy From
"Take your Chicken or Rabbatt quartird and Drabe the Bouls with a rowing pinn then take a litle Sweett margerum Lemon find and parsley and Shred them Very Small and Strow them upon the meate then take Some Broth or watter and nutmugg cut into quartirs a little whoole pipper two or three pieces of Lemon peel a Blade of mace and a little Sharlett and a litle oyster or mushroome liquor put all this togather with the meate into a frying pann and when it is fryed almost enough put in halfe a quarter of a pint of white win or Sarit and two or three Anchovy the yolke of two or three Eggs beaten in white win and a litle piece of Butter and a litle Salt Boope the pann that is in and when you find it thick inought put in juiced of Lemon great Oysters diped in the yelke of eggs and fryed Brownd mushrooms and Salett and the yelke of eggs boyled hard And then dish it up."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in a freeform, non-linear style typical of the 18th century. Spelling was idiosyncratic ('Sharlett' for 'shallot', 'Sarit' for 'sherry', 'Drabe the Bouls' likely meaning score the bones/joints). Instructions are focused on actions rather than measurements, and there is an assumption of baseline kitchen skill and ingredient knowledge on the part of the cook. Lists blur into prose, ingredients are not separated, and order of work is left a bit open for interpretation—hallmarks of the period’s instructive, conversational cookery writing.

Title
Cookery book of Ann Goodenough (1738)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Goodenough
Era
1738
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful journey into the kitchens of early 18th-century England, this collection captures the flair and flavors of its time with recipes crafted by the inventive Ann Goodenough. Expect a charming medley of hearty roasts, comforting pies, and time-honored confections, perfect for those wishing to dine as they did in Georgian days.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe was crafted in England during the early-to-mid 18th century by Ann Goodenough, a woman likely managing a bustling household kitchen. Its origins lie in the period’s rich tradition of savory, sauce-laden stews and 'fricassees'—dishes that combine French influence with local English ingredients like marjoram, parsley, and fresh oysters. Frigesy (or fricassee) was a popular way to prepare poultry and small game, showcasing both refinement and the era’s love of aromatic, slightly sharp sauces. The dish reflects the cosmopolitan nature of 18th-century English cuisine, blending imported spices and domestic herbs with new-world inspiration, firmly placing it in the hearty, hospitable world of Georgian-era dining.

The dish would have been made over an open hearth or in a kitchen with an iron stove. Large iron or copper frying pans, sharp knives, a wooden chopping board, mortar and pestle for spices, and long-handled spoons were key. Meat would be scored with a skein or sharp skewer (a 'rowing pinn'), and sauces gently simmered over coals with frequent stirring. A separate, smaller pan would be used for frying oysters and browning mushrooms.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
4
Ingredients
- 1 whole chicken (~3 1/3 lbs) or rabbit, quartered
- 1 tablespoon fresh marjoram, finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon rind, finely chopped
- 1 cup chicken broth or water
- 1/4 whole nutmeg, cut into pieces
- 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
- 2-3 strips lemon peel
- 1 blade mace
- 1 small shallot, finely chopped
- 1-2 tablespoons oyster liquor or 1 tablespoon mushroom stock
- 1/4 cup dry white wine
- 2-3 anchovy fillets
- 2 egg yolks, plus extra for frying and garnish
- 3/4 oz unsalted butter
- Pinch salt
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 6 large oysters (substitute mussels if unavailable)
- 3 1/2 oz mushrooms, sliced and browned
- Handful mixed salad leaves
Instructions
- Quarter a whole chicken (about 3 1/3 lbs) or use rabbit if available.
- Score the pieces lightly with a fork or skewer.
- Finely chop a handful each of fresh marjoram, parsley, and lemon peel, then sprinkle over the poultry.
- Place the meat in a large frying pan, add 1 cup of chicken broth or water, a quarter of a whole nutmeg (sliced), a few whole black peppercorns, 2-3 strips of lemon peel, one blade of mace, a small shallot (chopped), and 1-2 tablespoons of oyster liquor or mushroom stock.
- Bring to a gentle fry/simmer.
- When the meat is almost cooked through, add 1/4 cup dry white wine and 2-3 anchovy fillets.
- Beat 2 egg yolks with a splash more white wine and add, along with a small knob (about 3/4 oz) of butter and a pinch of salt.
- Stir gently until the sauce thickens.
- Add the juice of half a lemon, then top with large oysters that you've dipped in beaten egg yolk and fried separately, browned mushrooms, a handful of fresh salad leaves, and slices of hard-boiled egg yolk to garnish before serving.
Estimated Calories
480 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and cooking the chicken, making the sauce, and frying the oysters will take about 1 hour and 20 minutes altogether. This recipe makes enough for 4 people to enjoy a hearty meal. Each serving has about 480 calories.
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